using a 4 or 5 cell NiMH pack or using an active voltage regulator like a BEC used in r/c models to power the receiver and servos from a high voltage battery pack. I think zenta had some decent ones in one of his projects… search for “Turnigy” (I think was the manufacturer) or UBEC in the forum.
[size=75]Edited: to correct the spelling of turnigy and UBEC[/size]
You would most likely need two, much like the series diodes, and feed each of the VS# inputs seperately from a common battery pack. There is the disadvantage of cost, they are around $21USD each, however they allow you to use a higher input voltage like a 12V SLA battery or NiMH pack which are pretty common hobby-shop items if you want to souce locally to save shipping (since batteries are usually heavy). One nice advantage is they don’t generate large amounts of heat so they are a lot more efficient than a diode or voltage regulator (at considerably more cost.)
Here is an example of the type of device I am talking about, but there are other capable ones out there as well.
sounds like a plan
am i correct that i would disregard the orange/ brown wire on this an just use positive and negative to feed into VS1 and possible a second set up for VS2
yes, and make certain to remove the VS1=VS2 jumpers as well so you don’t short the outputs of the BECs together on the PCB.
oh, don’t destroy the ability to make a connection with the signal wire. Some BECs are programmable, the castle creations one I linked are for certain, and you would need that wire to re-program the output voltage or set a LiPO voltage threshold.
I think that is the one zenta used on his quad. It has a lower input voltage range than the CC-BEC so it may not work on a 12V SLA. Should work fine with up to 8 NiMH cells (9.6V pack) or on 2S or 3S LiPO pack though.
GL.