Solderd wires on sabertooth

It really is a small screwdriver, the motors run fine under the 6v battery. I guess they could still be sucking a lot or current but i wouldnt think so.
i do not have time to get the larger capacity sabertooths.

I tried the system with a fully charged 6v pack, and it worked fine. but after a fe minutes, it went back to going bezerk.

So, would this mean that my sabertooth is ok and that i need a new battery? maybee 2 in parrallel to last a little longer?

This seals it. You need to use a 7.2vdc battery and your problem will go away. Also you do need to make sure you have the decoupling caps on the motors. They prevent electrical noise from the motor from being propagated down the motors wires and possibly interfearing with nearby electronics. But if it’s working well on a fully charged battery going up to the next larger pack should take care of it.

you mean a capacitor between the motor terminals? i always wondered what those where for. what size capacitor should i solder on?
Also, isnt my problem current delivery and not voltage?
and lastly, recharge time needs to be kept as short as possible so should i go with nicad batteries instead of nimh’s, weight is also not an issue as my bot is underweight and could benifit from the weight traction wise at any rate.

Thanks,

Here is a link to an old thread discussing the placement of EMI filter capacitors on DC motors. It should give you enough info to work from.
lynxmotion.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2148

One affects the other. When you draw a lot of current the voltage will drop. The regulator requires around 5.5vdc coming in to provide a solid 5vdc out to the motor controllers circuitry. using a 7.2vdc battery will provide a buffer preventing the regulator from browning out.

NiCad can probably be charged faster than NiMH so it’s your choice.