Hmm,
Just got back from an old friend who has a PlayStation 2… The controller doesn’t connect to the receiver…
He gave me a wired controller, a original one… that one works fine. I can read all the values…
What am I now suppose to do with the wireless one?? Its brand new, but it has a quality control sticker 2009, march…
Is there someone from Lynxmotion here who can tell me how I can fix the controller or something??
Hope someone can help me…
We buy the controllers in large batches once a year. So it’s not unusual to see a QC sticker that is old. They sit in a box in the climate controlled warehouse until shipped.
You have stated you bought the controller a few months back. We routinely replace electronics as long as the problem is reported within a week or two of receiving the equipment. You have to understand we have no control over what is done with this sort of equipment. Things can be damaged if used incorrectly. Just last week a forum member asked for a PS2 controller to be replaced after he had it for over a year. We are generous, but there is a limit.
haha, I understand that.
Things just happen, I bought my controller by a dutch retailer on February 28… Maybe I can wine at them 
But is there some kind “things to check when your controller is not working” list or so…??
It would be handy to know, what the most likely problem is… maybe its just a easy fix, if you know where to look…
But thanks for all the fast responses,
Robert
The easiest way to check the controller is by installing the batteries in the handheld unit, and applying 5vdc to the black/yellow and red wires for the receiver. The two units should sync up very quickly. In other words just power them up. Ironically if you do connect the Atom or Stamp and have a problem with the code it can prevent them from syncing.
I know, I know
Thats the problem; they don’t find each other.
Already tried it with only 5V on the receiver, guess that it is the same as trying them on a PlayStation…
Just opened the receiver (removed the four screws) it doesn’t look very happy, not much that you can do… Only weird this is that U2 is missing,
and the solder pads connect to their neighbors (Where chip U2 should be connected then). Is that chip missing normal or…??
ah well…
Thx for the reply anyway
I opened up an old one and a newer one and neither of them even have U2 mentioned anywhere. 
I opened mine again 
looking inside electrical stuff, has been a hobby of mine since I’m a little child
Hope that the picture is clear enough to see;
The drawing were chip “U2” should go, and the coper lines that all touch each other there… If you print looks a lot better and the copper isn’t touching each other, then it could be a wise thing to fix this… You never know…
Thanks for all the help Mr. Robot dude
Robert
I opened up a working one here, there is no U2 chip and the leads are touching in the same places as yours.
Yes every revision is a little different. In this case U2 is not supposed to be there.
Hi,
Good news! The Dutch retailer has offered to replace mine controller 
just the mailing costs for me
Assuming that this one is gonna work, so then I have two of them, I bought yesterday an original wired PlayStation controller…
Little question. For the hardware and software it doesn’t matter which controller is connected right??
Robert
Hi,
Haha I’m all happy Received a new controller, and this one works beautiful!!
But when I compare them (the wireless one, and the wired one) then they do give different values.
The start and end value are off course the same, but the way to get to the values in different…
For the wired one is a gentle push enough, the wireless one needs a bit more force… 
one the other hand, the analog joysticks are more precise on the wireless, the middle value of the wired one is somewhere between 110 and 150.
Wireless one is always 128 in middle position…
But thanks all for the help by finding the problem,
Robert
