??? You’ve lost me. The sprockets ARE on the tracks. They need to be widened with spacers so they cover the whole track and spread the weight more evenly along the track so the track wont sink in ex: snow and will have better traction on all terraine. This modification is still being designed but I may have a solution already.
It looke good but i have a q couple suggestions.
-
Clean up those wires.
, looks like a spider web blew apart in there -
You wont be able to climb things that are much higher than 1/2 the sprocket due to your design. The edge of the rover hangs out past the track, so you will just slam into things and your track will not be able to get a grip onto wat ever the rover is hitting
, looks like a spider web blew apart in thereThe design of the rover is perfect for my applications.
Its main goal: capable of reconnaissance, disarming a hostile human, combat in remote, rural, and urban areas, Combat in severe weather conditions, Assist soldiers in combat, withstand mild impacts, accurately shoot at targets, and perform tactical missions for Military, SWAT, and law enforcement.
Bold: in other words pretty flat terriane, no climbing, needs power for maneuvering well. I think they will suffice.
the wires you say? Its about to get worse! I have tones of servos and wires to add to the bot! I don’t clean up until its done bud. Its all proper proccess with me. 
ok, but i just wanted to make sure you knew that, urban areas arn’t always very flat either, and “reomote” doesn’t really describe types of terrain, when i think “remote” i think the back woods with rocks and deep mud anf things of that nature
If this is going in a science fair, where is the “science” in the project? A judge might think it is just an RC model project.
**UPDATE: Here is the airsoft gun I bought for the robot.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m51/Italian_guy299/pgun.jpg
Heres an image of how a pellet gun works:
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m51/Italian_guy299/AEG.gif
I noticed that the hopper is able to come off, which is good, becuase it will look less silly this way on the bot. I have a picoswitch to control this as well as the radio reciever I am going to control it with. Im guessing that I am suppose to solder wires from the motor, to the picoswitch and picoswitch out to the reciever. From there, turning the nob on my reciever will allow me to fire a single shot or round of * (fully automatic gun).
This seems plausible, but I haven’t connected it yet. If this dosent work I am going to have to manually fire it by pressing the trigger (this can be done by modifying my little grip to do so).
this airsoft gun will be mounted on a customized pan/tilt system using 645 servos to take the weight. It will be mounted by the center of gravity with a special harness I will either mold to fit the gun or make a mechanical setup to hold it tight.
what do you think?
P.S I reformatted my computer and didnt back-up my project file (I dont know how it didnt save? 
) and lost my scientific method and log worth 60 hours of work 
Im going to have to recreate this log best of my ability/memory.
- Joe out**
I dont understand why there are like 3" super long tracks. Why???
The tracks are 3" becuase if the robot needed to operate in a Sandy place or in the winter with snow on the ground, most of the weight will be spread along the thick tracks so it won’t sink. Imagin how a snow shoe works. 
ok, but if I put adult size snow shoes on my 4yo niece she don’t go very far.
But snow shoes don’t look like they are falling apart or wobbly. 
At least tighten the tracks and extend the axel out and put a second sprocket.
- there are TWO sprockets.
- thats the way they came
I need to find a way to put spacers in between so that they go from one end of the track to the other.
Lm should have made the sprockets bigger in the first place, IDY I have to modify them myslef… 
You can use the sprockets alone. They don’t need to be in pairs. Use 2 hubs each with only 1 sprocket on each end. If you already have 8 sprockets, you just need 4 more hubs.
We are making a wider hub to accept the sprocket halves to make a proper drive system for the 3" wde tracks. The sprockets are perfect. We will have the new hubs in a couple weeks. Chill dude!
Jim, I knew you wouldn’t let us down 8)
well Its been almost two months now since my project had hit a dead halt. I lost records of over 60 hours of work and now I am trying to come up with an accurate record (from memory) of how much work was done and when it was done so I can add it to my 2007/2008 log.
School and work has been murder! And Im making that U turn to try and get back to working on this project.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I have bought this airsoft gun: Link
from my local canadian tire. I tried to open the case, but in order to do so I have to sort of…break it 
Im not sure If i should risk breaking it to open up the shell to get to the components since Im not sure where I have to put the pico switch on this thing to get it to fire. And I need to know if the pico switch will get this thing to shoot properly when I move a lever on my Hitec RC Controller.
I really need the help from someone who knows or has an idea on how to do this, If the electronic firing will not be plausable I may have to modify a little grip so that it presses and releases the trigger smoothly and quickly.
If you need any detailed pics, state so and I will upload some, I really need help on this, and the project cannot continue without this.
Thanks guys, enlighten me with your wisdom!
You don’t really need to open up your gun to make an electric switch. When I need one, I use a thin piece of cardboard with the bare end of a wire on each side, placed in between the end of the battery and the spring/clip that the end of the battery pushes against. This forces the battery current to go out one wire and back in on the other one to make the circuit. You would then hook the ends of the two wires to the pico switch, and tie the trigger down on the gun. When the pico switch is made, the gun should fire. The only modification needed to the gun would be a small notch in the edge of the battery compartment for the wires to come out so the compartment cover will close. Be aware you probably won’t be allowed to bring an air gun on to school property and possibly into any public exibition.
yup, Im sure I wont be able to display it, just some neat pictures to provide the judges with all the views they need. This thing isn’t leathal, but it can be extremely dangerous, which is why Im taking extra precuations and asking “the pros” (yep, that would be you guys ) before doing anything. Thanks for the advice, that should work, providing I also tie down the safety switch in the “on” position to allow it to fire.
My own robot with enough killing power to…hurt a squirrel? 
JK
P.S: could you provide me with a simple diagram, the part about the wires on the cardboard is kinda fuzzy in my head.
Thanks ZoomKat
Below is a quick glue job to give you an idea. If you use glue, make sure the outside side of the wire that makes battery or spring/clip contact doesn’t have any glue on it for good electrical contact.
Hack the switch out of the gun and then replace it with the N.O. picoswitch relay contacts.