Cool! Does the gun work? If it does, could you give us some videos?
I’d also like you to take note that the tracks look a bit uneven.
Each side has 22 tracks, so I doubt their uneaven. The gun works and is controlled by CH6 switch on my laser six controller. The pico switch in between the battery and the reciever does this. I can take a single shot by turning it on off quickly or I can keep it on and shoot continuosly fully automatic.
Well, what I meant was, the sprockets look like they’re not really connected to the motors very well. It doesn’t have any problems, does it? Glad to hear you got that pistol working.
Although I’m not really a big fan of the idea of mounting a projectile weapon to a remotely operated vehicle, I picked up one of those toy guns in the store a while back on a whim, with the intention of rebuilding it into a form a bit more suitable for such a use.
This plan fell by the wayside the moment that I got it home and had a look at what I had acquired. The design and construction, while nothing too impressive, can be worked with quite easily, but I was “somewhat less than impressed” with the performance. Between frequent feed failures, inconsistent firing, extreme sensitivity to feed angle, and abysmal power, I didn’t even bother to follow up any further on the project. As it sounds like you’re happy with yours (it looks to be exactly the same unit), I can only assume that you got one from a run with better quality control than the one I ended up with.
It’s a shame, really - the design looks like it would be quite hackable and easy to work with.
Wow! great job on the chassis! Looks great!
Need a video of it when it’s ready!
Very nice job! 
I would put a small micro (like a pic) in between the firing output and the pico switch. This would allow you to do semi-auto and fully-auto fire. Like auto repeat on you keyboard.
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The driver wouldn’t have to concentrate on the switch flicking timing thingy. This is also something that the judges would like because it’s more like a real robot than just a toy.
I might also replace the transmitter switch with a button. (not that hard, just don’t tamper with the R/C part of it or industry Canada will be at your door 
)
thank you all for the replies. WOWY7, I still don’t see what you mean. The sprockets seem to mesh very good with the tracks. I even tried to pull one off, but the tracks are soo tight this is not possible unless you remove the tracks altogether. Im happy with that, I really like the idea of solid tracks that won’t come apart when driving.
@ Zoomkat: I bought that airsoft at Canadiantire and have had no problem so far. I have only test fired it myself without ammo in it a few times ( I don’t like the idea of weapons myself, but this was a project I couldn’t resist). I imagine when the hopper is almost empty and one was to aim the gun upward, it may not fire becuase the pellets won’t be able to load into the spring slot, but I haven’t tested this.
@SN96: There will be a video of the drive train alone and a test fire of the airsoft (without ammo) alone in the following days.
Glad everyone likes the body. I was sure someone would find a flaw I didn’t Looks good to me! 
I wouldn’t worry about the ammo for the science fair, as I doubt you would be allowed to have any ammo in it. I previously suggested that you should check with the fair officials about the gun. I doubt you will be allowed to bring it to any school.
What about my idea? 
Right you are. For both system, provincial and national, special forms must be filled out prior to entering the fair, as well as adult supervision of the project, and the gun will not be allowed to be displayed, nor will ammo be allowed on the premisess. My plan is to have very detailed images, videos and diagrams to fully explain the weapon system to the judges.
Don’t forget, my objective isn’t to shoot bystanders viewing my project
As you can see in the pic below, It looks as if it can be pushed in towards the motor more. I may be wrong, as it could just be the pic making it look like that.
They can be pushed in more, however I choose not to do so becuase I am using this method as a way to deny branches, twigs or any other matter from jamming the sprockets or being caught between the motor shaft when driving over them. This tactic also works good for driving over snow becuase it sets the tracks further from the body and allows me to driver over snow without sinking. It also makes for easy access to the small #4 screws.
Ofcourse this is my theory, I will be sure to test both of these theories before I make my final decision of how far I want the tracks from the body.
Ok, Just a little heads up.
UPDATE: Robot chassis is complete. Sorry for no pics. 
I noticed while test driving the bot, turning left is much slower than turning right. The trims on my laser4 are both centered giving equal amounts of movement to the motors, but sometimes different channels are slower than others. Is this the Sabertooth? Not much of a problem, but it concerns me.
It would not be the Tx and I’ve never experienced that with the saber-tooth. Is it possible that it is mechanical?
Or it could be the motors.
Do both sets of treads have the same amount of tension on them?
Do the treads run at the same speed or at different speeds when they are suspended up above the running surface?
Also does it slowly turn to one side when going forward? If it tracks straight when going forward and backwards, but turns slower one direction then the other, then it’s the mixing in the sabertooth.
Thanks for the replies guys! No I don’t think it is a mechanical problem since all the motors are the same type and wired together.
@Seamus: I don’t think it is a tension problem on the tracks either since both sides (left and right) were drilled together with 7" apart from the shaft centers, and are identical becuase of this, so I don’t think it would be that either.
@Evo: yes, when driving forward she kinda shifts to the left instead of driving straight and has to be corrected with the joystick on the Laser4 to keep her going straight. So yes, it could be the mixing. But is it the mixing on the laser4 or on the Sabertooth? And Anyway of fixing this?
Thanks,