Hey, my brain was slow when I posted a request for a diagram…I picked up a 4000 Ma. Lipo and have it all wired in and code monitored and it works great.
The run time is fantastic.
I do have one more question on this thou…how far are you draining your Lipo before recharging, I’ve read so much about it, some say no less than 3 volts per cell, others say no less than 3.7 per cell and even others say you can pull them down to 2.5 per cell and slow charge then back up ( have a look at the link a few posts back )
Any ways thanks again for the input it helped to make me decide to get a 7.4 Lipo which makes it so much easier.
The discharge level per cell can vary between LiPo brands. Follow the instructions that comes with the battery. Normally its 3v per cell. I’ve some LiPo’s that accept down to 2,8v but to be sure I wouldn’t recommend lower than 3v. 3,7 is the nominal voltage (7,4v for a 2S) and its safe to go under that level. You’ll also notice that the voltage level will raise after disconnecting the LiPo, but its a good rule to always recharge the battery as soon as possible.
Ive been doing r/c-racing in the 1:10 and 1:18 scale as a hobby for three years
My expirience is that if you discharge a Lipo under 3V (and deffinently when it goes under 2,5V) the LiPo is hoplesly gone. Even if you can resurect it by fooling your charger it is a NiMh (regular LiPo-chargers dont even begin to charge if the V is lower then 3.0) and charge it, the capacity will have been very decrised by more than 50% av 2,5V, and what is worse, the cells behave inconsistent to each other, neding constant balancing and so on, and this will eventually led to a swollen LiPo-pack and the white smoke …
Allways use care when handling LiPo, and never neither over-discharge or overcharge them. I even allways use a LiPo-bag when i charge them indoors, because my whife and my kids allso live here, and LiPo-fires are “spectacular”
I do RC car and Helicopter and Planes. All on lipo and when they are gone they are gone. The only thing you can have by trying to resurect them
is a big “Boom”.
So what your saying is is that in a Hex Robot War I over charge my on-board lipo( that was drained to far) with the auxiliary back up battery and eject the core ( battery ) at the opponent and KABOOM I win! ! ! !
Hey thanks guy’s I’ve got a pretty good grasp on the lipo situation now and all is well and I would recommend a 4000 Ma. lipo for your HEX Bot excellent power and duration.
Due to all the warnings about the LiPo’s they are completely safe to use as long as they are handled properly. LiPo’s can’t burst into fire under normal use. Or else they wouldn’t be legal to sell (IMHO).
Also check this guide of how to keep it safe (or not to…).
Under normal conditions and use I think the most risky part is the possibility of a short circuit. Use one main fuse close to the battery when using them on a robot. I think that’s very important due to the “open” electronic like the BAP and SSC32 board, one of the pins can easily be shorted if you touch them with a screwdriver or if some of your wire-work is faulty. So its a very good idea to always test your circuit using another power supply at first (like a lab power supply) or use a multimeter to check for a direct short circuit before connecting the LiPo for the first time.
Beside of the risk of short circuit on robots, I think using LiPo’s on robots are very safe compared to RC car++. The reason is that a robot doesn’t draw much current under use, that combined with continuous monitoring of the LiPo voltage makes it safe when it comes to over discharging.
I got one of these as well as one of the 10000 ones from them. I did get the 16000 to fit in my ch3r with some mods.
My main concern is that the bot is noticeably weak with those batterys. Is that because they are rated at only 1C discharge rate?
the idea is 16A cont and 30 A peak … Zeta has it likte this, but i didnt do it like that, because i dont know if the resistance rises when the current rises, and if the recistanse drops just a fraction all current will go throu that UBEC and “the white smoke” will appear …
Not sure what you mean? Both the ARC-32 and the SSC-32 has two power banks (VS1 and VS2) each regulator are connected to one of the power banks (VS).
The two regulators do share the same battery, its only the Vin that are wired together. Can’t see any trouble with that.
