I’m not sure 4-40 parts will work here, specifically on the Ball Bearing Hub part. It’s tapped for 2-56, and there is no more room for a larger tapped hole to fit in there. This is a sticky wicket!
its no big problem.
lets outline this:
**Some of the rods bend **
here i could buy some thin aluminum tubing to feed over the rods for a more ridged assembly! (we already know this works well)
The rods pop out of the threaded end of the socket
Here i can add lock Tight.
Also some minor things like the ball joints unscrew them selves.
i intend to add a nut to the back of the servo hub and use split washers on the baring hubs.
apart from that. im having fun with it. so thanks again jim. there were some extra bits you sent.
you sent two extra HUB-09’s and two extra ps3 receivers. 
i can post them back to you if you wish.?
again jim, thanks.
You can try some stronger linkages and ballcups.
I don’t know which one would work for you, but Lundsford makes some really strong turnbuckles. They are used on RC cars so you can find them at most RC hobby shops…
As for the ball cups, I use RPM ballcups in my RCs. They are beefy and are less prone to popping off. If you really want to secure it, you can use the eye-let type and secure it with a bolt and washer.
Stuff like that…
DuBro brand of linkages works good for most things that doesn’t require much force, but linkages like Lundsford were designed for being light and take punishments like in off-road RC vehicles…
BTW, the pic above isn’t Lundsford, I just wanted to illustrate the eye-let type of joints…
I don’t know what the lengths are that you need, so you might want to look around and see if there are any long ones that will work for you…
cannot see your images.
yes i have been looking at these solutions.
also i have been looking at these to strengthen the joints:
a much nicer solution would be these:
http://www.rcheliworld.com.au/images/0817_large_image.jpg
i need them to be 4".
Hi Jonny,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Last week was pretty busy. I seem to remember we got some out of spec 2-56 threaded rod. Looks like I sent some of them by accident. I will look into it. I think the aluminum tubing should stiffen up the rods. Looking forward to seeing it walk. 
The hub-09’s… dunno about them, the extra receivers, well you may need to make a new bot. Don’t send it back.
thanks.
i have some spare rods from another order so i will try replacing the once that seem to cause the most problems. i went out today to look for some aluminum tubing but the smallest they carried was 8mmID so i managed to get some 3mmID but in brass. once i get round to cutting them to 4" ill add them. 
also i have some strong adhesive and i will also been using this on the tread so they dont pop out.
i have been using phoenix v1.3 and seems to be working great. ill have a vid by the weekend hopefully…
I plan to do some videos this weekend as well. I’ve got my 2DOF inline hexapod walking around too! We’re taking next Monday off because the 4th falls on a Sunday this year.
i look forward to that also.
very interested in seeing that. any quick pictures?
The quick part was I asked James to take the picture for me.
Here it is. All aluminum 2DOF old school hexapod nirvana! I’m working on making the legs more affordable.
very cool jim.
i really like the old school look. the aluminum finish looks really nice.
thanks for the picture.
ok i got some time this morning to work on the ID3h-r hexapod. After cutting the tube down to 12 pieces of 74mm i have added then to the legs. also i have used a LOCTITE Precision Max glue on the treads.
im going to charge up the battery’s tonight and ill be ready for a video for you tomorrow.
http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd355/innerbreed/100_2339.jpg
http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd355/innerbreed/100_2336.jpg
http://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd355/innerbreed/100_2338.jpg
I quite like the Gold look too. i think its better than the original aluminum i was after before.
Hi Jonny,
So this is the luxury edition…
Lets hope the brass tube did the magic. Looking good!
Btw, have you done some more debugging on the V20 code? Or just using the v1.3 ?
With V20 the main problem i was having was the rear right leg was strangely off and didnt respond in the intended way. i couldnt really find out why.
i moved to V1.3 as i find it easier to work with having everything on one window. The known problem with either of these codes is that the Body dimensions are making the code “over calculate” the rotations.
[code]RFOffsetX con -69 ;Distance X from center of the body to the Right Front coxa
RFOffsetZ con -119 ;Distance Z from center of the body to the Right Front coxa
RMOffsetX con -138 ;Distance X from center of the body to the Right Middle coxa
RMOffsetZ con 0 ;Distance Z from center of the body to the Right Middle coxa
RROffsetX con -69 ;Distance X from center of the body to the Right Rear coxa
RROffsetZ con 119 ;Distance Z from center of the body to the Right Rear coxa
LFOffsetX con 69 ;Distance X from center of the body to the Left Front coxa
LFOffsetZ con -119 ;Distance Z from center of the body to the Left Front coxa
LMOffsetX con 138 ;Distance X from center of the body to the Left Middle coxa
LMOffsetZ con 0 ;Distance Z from center of the body to the Left Middle coxa
LROffsetX con 69 ;Distance X from center of the body to the Left Rear coxa
LROffsetZ con 119 ;Distance Z from center of the body to the Left Rear coxa[/code]
The problem is this #MOffsetX (138) so i have changed it to #MOffsetX (128) and even #MOffsetX (127)
i know this means the IK is slightly out but its not making much difference and works fine.
As promised.
Bit of a pain controlling it while holding a camera. 
Oooh video… Hey who stole my popcorn? 
Awesome!
I’ve never seen that chassis tilt with body moves like this one. Very cool, I’m impressed. Seem as if the 645’s are handling the abuse pretty well. Thanks for sharing!
Ha! That’s awesome Jonny!
The insect-like slim leg really gave me the creepy feeling.
I was just thinking, what if the round body was just a little smaller or what if we used some beefy servos and even longer leg segments.
Anyway, congratz with a successful Lynxmotion project, thats one for the books. I just love it.
btw, thanks for the credit.
Edit, you got to buy a tripod stand for your camera… 
the 645’s are perfect. i can make the body tilt more than that. ill do another video sometime and show its full range. thanks jim.
yes tripod + better camera would be great. its actually the conversion that down grades the res.
i know what your saying. the body does look very large compared to the legs. in neutral pos the “combined servos” are about 80mm apart and when rotating they come as close as 30mm so plenty of room for a smaller chassis.
as i was building up the legs it soon became obvious that the 4" femurs and 3" tibia’s work best but i can always put the 4" tibia’s on for a vid.
This is one AWESOME bug! I am envisioning this leg on an eight legged walker based on a spider or lobster… Are you going to try an eight legged freak with this leg??
8-Dale
hi Dale,
8 legs… hum, sounds interesting.
i have actually been designing an eight axis chassis but not for this type of leg. maybe if i get the chassis made i may adopt the idea for a vid but my intentions for the eight axis chassis would be to add T-hex legs.
as much as i feel eight legs is overkill i would love to have the experience of making an eight legged robot.
i ordered some parts last night to experiment with the T-Hex design, so really its all just down to whether or not i build it.
it would then mean that IRON WOLF would be stripped and used for parts, so at the moment its just an idea. i dont plan on doing that just yet.
I have some ideas for eight legs that would make all legs useful. 
Put some kind of gripper on the two front legs. If the robot uses those legs/arms to manipulate objects, it could then walk and move as a hexapod.
8-Dale