i built the clock input and connected it to the IC74164 but the three LED’s after the 74164 didnt glow.Are there any other connections in the circuit other than the ones in the schematic?(i started building circuits very recently and without the complete design it’s hard for me to figure out any connection left out)
so,can you please post the remaining connections (if any),and what is the value of v+ that you recommend.(i set V+ to 5v and did’nt give any potential to Vcc of the IC)
Your questions are not very specific. And I could not possibly guess what you’re doing different. Also, you must understand that a circuit diagram is never a recipe for success. See it more like a road map where you have to navigate yourself. No road map will ever teach you East from West.
BTW 5V is about right. I can never tell the difference between VCC and VDD. Don’t lure me into burning your components as well as mine.
Perhaps you could show us your circuit. In a diagram perhaps. Drawing your own is a very valuable way to learn electronics. Diagramming is the first language of engineers.
My project consists of three major circuits. Each with their own diagram. You can combine them like I did, or replace any of them with your own inventions. I am not sure which connections you left out. An LED not glowing could mean anything. Start with your clock. Replace the values of C and R in the tank circuit to slow it down. Now you should be able to see with the naked eye how the signal is pulsing. Use a voltmeter or an LED or a buzzer. Experiment with different values to speed up or slow down the pulse.
But if this is your very first time with electronics, I can only give you this advice: start small. Smaller even than a 555 timer. Make the LED glow without smoke. And enjoy.
i don’t have a software to draw schematics right now,so i drew one in good old MSpaint.please tell me if there are any mistakes.I also removed the switch after 100K.is it okay as it is used to “boot”.plz help.
Your schematic looks like an exact copy of mine. So I trust it.
The booting "switch" is important. By making a brief contact, you bring the counter loop to life. I used a loose wire from R77 to pin 2 on the 74164.By briefly touching the contact, the sequence would begin. I drew a proper (momentary) switch in my circuit because I do not know the international symbol for "loose wire that touches stuff when I want it to".
I hope you find the patience to try this with a slow clock pulse, so you can follow the results with your own eyes. Two or three pulses per second or slower even.
Hehe, there is actually an Hehe, there is actually an international symbol for “loose wire that touches stuff when I want it to”, but it’s more formally known as a ‘flying lead’. This diagram has several small circuits on it, a few of which have a flying lead, such as the top-left circuit. The curvy line with the arrow on the end is the wire for the flying lead.
doing exactly what you said I am now trying to decrease the frequency and trying to get it blinking.it’s a lot of fun just like you said.I also saw in one of your diagrams that the input is sine wave.so instead of square wave can the input be a sinsoidal one from an oscillator?will it work?and what is the max RPM i can get with the circuit.
1)the clock is perfectly working.i could get a very low frequency.
2)i did all the connections to IC74164.i set V=+5v,and grounded the 7th pin(not shown in the diagram).connected an LED to 4th pin and grounded the other end.i switched on the power supply and the LED started glowing.then i gave the clock pulse and exactly after the clock pulse led stopped blinking the LED in IC74164(4th pin) stopped blinking and never turned on again,even after 2 min.
"Maybe your circuit lit up the LED before it started receiving a clock signal. The the clock switched it off"
this is what exactly happened,I switched on the power supply and even without the clock being fed the LED was ON and after the clock LED turned ON and OFF and ON the 74164 LED stopped glowing and did’nt turn on even after i did the boot up sequence.(for the boot up sequence i connected a simple switch and clicked it a few times and finally.is it the right way to do it??).i even clicked the other switch but it had no effect.what might be the problem?hope i’m not troubling much.
it somewhat worked. first i left the above message and started working on the circuit.by mistake i removed the ground connection in 74164(pin 7) and suddenly the circuit worked.but when i connected the other two LED’s they all started blinking at the same timeas the clock and not one after the other.i even tried the boot sequence,but still no effect.please help.
I am sorry to say: you will have to figure this out by yourself. You followed all my instructions (I think) and it still does not work as you expected it to work. I just ran out of suggestions. And I don’t want to suggest you give up now.
So here’s what you need to investigate and study. Start with the bit shift register. Find some good description on-line (always a data-sheet, maybe wikipedia) and study it. Leave out the motor and driver and clock. Just put the 74164 on a breadboard and get to know it. Feed it manual pulses with a “flying lead”. Make LEDs light up on its outputs. Use a multimeter. Learn until there is nothing left to learn about the darn thing.
Then apply your knowledge. Or teach me something new. Either way, please report back.
i studied a lot about flipflops and shift registers.Now i understand the circuit pretty well. I understood that the a bit 1 is shifted at every clock pulse to the next flipflop and the output is got at Q.the output at 5 is fed back to 2/1 to get a loop.my circuit is kinda doing the opposite.first all the 8 led’s connected to 8 outputs glow without the clock.then when i give the clock pulse.one by one the LED’s start switching off.and the loop is not formed even after i spark the 2 with S2.
please tell me what to do next.I studied all about the IC’s but could’nt figure out what to do.and as i see 1&2 are grounded and after i spark the 100K to 2 the circuit should give bit1 to the first flip flop and it should shift.but it can be seen from the diagram that the potential is grounded through 10k res.
Please explain that in brief…Thank you…Take your time…
it was a short in the 74164 that created all the problem.but i rectified it and finally it worked.first i set the clock freq. at 0.25 hz and step by step the motor started turning.
the lm32d IC gets hot after a few seconds,how do i over come that?(i gave +5v to all v+) .how do i give the 12v the motor requires?should i give 12v to v+ of lm32d?what is the max freq of clock that i should give?
Wow! I started to fear for your project. I was running all out of advice for yo. But this is absolutely great news. Please consider posting pictures or even video of a turning motor.
The motor driver chip I used is L293D. It is supposed to get quite hot. Just keep it well ventilated. If I remember correctly, the chip can handle up to 0.7 Ampere or even a full 1.0 A. Put your multimeter to use. Measure the current at the power source, to be sure. At 5 V I never exceeded 1.0 A (again: if I remember correctly). Only when the motor is stalling (not turning while drawing current) will you see it spike above 1.0 A. If your hard drive motor is anything like mine. You know: buyer beware!
Running more than 12V? Hmmm, first of all, check the datasheet for the driver. Check if it will feed on 12V. It has separate V+ pins for the motor power. Then make sure the 12V does not “leak back” to your micro controller. Feel free to post a new question about that in the electronics forum. You will probably get better and more answers there.
Oh, that’s right: I used the L293D for just one reason: it was the only “power transistor” I had in stock. Its only function is to amplify the puny signals from the shift register.
Good work jayanth! Keep reporting your successes please.
Instead of booting up the sequence with a "flying lead" touching the right pin at the right time, I came up with a new idea. Perhaps better.
Forget bout looping back the red signal back to the green wire via the diode. ust keep the green wire feeding a pulse every third clock pulse. Use a digital divider.
I am not sure if a "divide by three" chip exists. I doubt it. You may end up hacking a shift register to do it for you. That almost defeats the point. Almost! You still get to eliminate the manual booting, which is good.
I tried to control the motor via parallel port producing the same signal of 74164N and using a L293B, 9V source ,but when I set the delay on 1ms the motor get out of control (stopped rotating ) ,it just rotate with a delay upper 10ms . What is wrong???
I can only make a few guesses. OK, maybe just one.
Your “delay” may be at the wrong moment in the cycle. Is this delay between pulses, or is it the lenght of the pulses? Did you draw yourself a diagram of your pulses?
Is it even realistic to expect a turning motor at 1ms delays? What kind of speeds are we talking about here? 18000 RPM? That’s way out of range for these devices.
