Have you tried the suggested “Arduino Pro Mini w/328” in your drop down it would be “Arduino Pro or Pro Mini”?
You also need the drivers installed as well as the right COM port select.
[highlight=#NaNffff]Hello and thanks for reply.
I have tried that selection with no results. I have tried just about every board option. I also figured out the port selection as well because I was able to get he board to run and work with the multiwiiconf software.
I also followed all of these steps on a PC based laptop with no luck either. Slightly different error but no luck. Is there a way to confirm I have all drivers installed? Would the board connect and run on multiwiiconfig even if the drivers and Java were not installed?
Thanks for your help, I was really needing this to work by end of day today for a demo I have to do tomorrow.[/highlight]
To verify the driver, you need to open the Windows Device Manager
windows.microsoft.com/en-ca/windows/open-device-manager#1TC=windows-7
Once in there you should see “Silicon Labs CP210x USB to UART Bridge” under “Ports”(attachment MWC - COM Port.png)
Java is needed to open MultiWiiConf the configurator of MultiWii.
Also, be sure to Unzip all the files just like they are in the zip file. Folders and everything. (attachment MWC - All Files.png)
Thanks. Well I tried for the 3rd time to install the driver on my mac and something must have changed because it now works.
Thank you! Now I am off to make some adjustments.
Perfect, if you have any other issues we are here. 
Hello
I am using this board successfully but I have changed my servos to larger models, one being a 1/14 scale (all analog). Now I am seeing and hearing more gitter I am interested in knowing if there are other options that may work better for me. Could I use a controller that allows for 6S input and just use the gimbal output? Does this model offer a servo gimbal option? robotshop.com/en/p2-flight-controller.html
I am not as concerned about the cost as I am in having a good servo gimbal controller that can power one standard servo and one large 1/4 scale servo.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Trying to know exactly what’s the goal here, do you have issues with the Voltage ?
Those 1/4 scale servos might need a bigger power source (current) what do you use to power everything ?
I had an issue with mine and now it stopped working. I have a new one in the mail. I am just concerned that the current draw is too hight for this small board. But I could be wrong.
Bottom line goal is the best performing servo gimbal controller that will handle the two high power servos.
Thanks for the help.
The power itself is not handled by the controller, if you look closer to Positive and Negative pins they are all linked together. (all Negative together / all Positive together)
So the current is not flowing Through the board but between the pin that is powering the board and the servo itself.
OK so then it should not matter about current draw really. Thank you.
I will try the new one I have coming and see how it performs.
Thanks again for your help.
Hello All
I have a new issue here. I got the new board in and it has some simular issues which I thought has to do with some bad solder joints on my old board.
The board only wants to work when its plugged into the USB of my laptop. It does not been to be connected to any software or anything, it’s like it needs the additional power or something. The gimbal lays mostly limp with a blue light and fast flashing red. Plus in the USB and I get both blue lights and red goes away and gimbal turns on and works great. Unplug USB and it just falls asleep and does not power servos to stay still or move or anything.
Any thoughts?
Do you have a picture showing how you power the board ? (externally, not by USB)
I don’t have a picture but I can tell you I have powered it two different ways. First way was how it was powered all along, with an 5vlt lead coming from my DJI a2 autopilot which also powered other devices in my system. So I decided maybe there was a current issue so I took the direct 6S power from my distribution board on my S900 and used a Castle voltage regulator to bring it to 5vlts. Still does not work.
So what I did was took a cheap micro USB cord and cut and hacked into the + & - and powered it with the same line off my A2 and it works great. Kind of silly to have it powered in two locations on the board but at least it works for now.
Would love to understand what else it could be and eliminate that additional wiring.
Thanks.
There are diodes on-board to avoid feeding 5V to the USB or the BEC when connecting both at the same time.
Those diodes are rated a certain amount of current (which we don’t know) and could be blown if you ask for more than it can handle, but this is not current drawn from the Servos themselves so it should not be your case. If the USB side still power the board, it mean the BEC side is blown or the connection is not done right (wrong pins). If the board came with this issue, it could be that the diode is populate reversed on your board, avoiding the voltage to pass.
If that’s the case, you can create a ticket to get it exchanged HERE.
I am connecting power to the same row of pins where the servos connect.
I could not get it to work with power on one side or the other, it only works when I power both sides. This happened to my other board after changing to larger servos (worked a couple times and then never worked again) which is why I think this is not a board problem. I am thinking there is something going on with the these servos on this board.
I may try to connect the servos power lines direct to a power source and bypass the board completely and then only power the board with it’s own powersource. Think that would work if the servos are the real cause here?
This will have no impact whatsoever, the current doesn’t flow inside the board, only between pins.
One thing that could happen is voltage spikes when the servos move, this could lead to a spike of high voltage on the input of the board and blow the diode. If that’s the case, running the power outside the board could solve the issue.
There are two things, in your case yes you need to power it from both side because when you only apply power to the servo bus, there is no 5V going to the board internal which power everything (microprocessor etc). But if you only power the USB you do not have power on the Servo bus.
This look like a blown diode, but voltage spike could be the reason why.
Thanks Eric, that makes sense and I bet that is what happened.
Would you accept the board for repair knowing that is what could have happened? I would wire it up as suggested and confirm my results here on the forum.
Create a ticket and add the link to this forum topic, we will look if we can get it replaced.
So unfortunately I never returned this board and never ordered a replacement (bad idea). Powering it through the USB solved my problems until today the USB connector broke off during some maintenance. I’m trying to get power back to this board and I am wondering if there is any other place I could connect power without trying to get these tinny little micro usb connections to work again.
Back story, the power on the BEC side was gone bad and I was powering the board through the USB side without any issue. This was all fine until I broke off the small micro USB connector.
I have an important job to do on Monday and I am desperate for a solution. I’m good with the solder iron but not good enough to put back this micro usb connector.
Any help now would be greatly appreciated.
Without the USB, it won’t be easy to program. Can you give us your invoice number and we’ll see if it’s still under warranty? It sounds like either way, you need a new board.