hmm, reversing…dunno, il
hmm, reversing…
dunno, il figure it out probably, maybe use PNP and NPN, i dont know for sure yet…
and amps trough transistors, depends on the transistor 
there are prolly just as much different transistors as there are relays…
but i was just browsing for the sensor, and i could only find it at ebay, for about €22,- a piece, and seeming as i need 4 (2 per racer) that would cost more than anything else, is this the right price?
And there are 2 options;
And there are 2 options; Motor drivers, or relays.
What you are about to, is building a motor driver 
I chose relays to get the simpler solution in this project. And to experiment.
You can buy motor drivers, or you can make your own
22 Euro sounds a bit expensive for the SRF05, have a look in the LMR components section for better options
lol, well lets build a motor
lol, well lets build a motor driver then XD
ive thought a bit, and i probably need 2 PNP and 2 NPN transistors, along with 2 of the outputs on the picaxe, per motor.
and i’ve looked into that components section, and it looks about the same price, $27,95 is about 22.78 euros at current rate…
i’m thinking of using this, instead.
edit: im trying to find the webshop that provides that infrared sensor (dagu, i believe) but cant find it, can u post a link?
edit2: i just found it, hidden away at the bottom right XD
edit3: i found the product here but the price is higher than specified here ($11,-) and i just realised it can only be set for 1 range (right) so it wouldnt work as wel…
That IR sensor from DAGu
That IR sensor from DAGu would be a bad idea for this project; It is “Digital”, that is, it can only tell you if object is with range X or not. Range x is set physically on the thing.
You need more than just one factor, to get a good project. And Ir in general is not that good at giving excact values, Darker objects appears to be farther away.
You should find a cheap Ultra sound. How fast are your cars driving, do you think? it is easier with slower cars, and then you can do with sansors that are more accurate, but has less range. The SRF05’s specs are good in this manner. But there are cheaper Ultra sounds, like the link I send you to the components database, in which you just found the SRF05.
i have no cars, yet XDil
i have no cars, yet XD
il look into it later, dont have the time now 
will 1 sharp IR sensor
will 1 sharp IR sensor attached in between the two senors u mentioned be as good as those 2 combined??
RTFM, please
RTFM, please
OH, and this is NOT a
OH, and this is NOT a beginners project. Start much, much simpler!
lol i can see that…2
lol i can see that…2 sensors …relays bla bla bla
but u gave me an awsm idea
hope it works
Hello again fritslI check
Hello again fritsl
I check out the attached program but it dosent seem to be opening the way it should…really wondering how you made it “skid”.
Can I have some assistance on the same?
I cannot help you open the
I cannot help you open the program, it is completely raw, not even zipped?
The “skidding” is 2 parts;
I have seen some of your comments and questions around on the site, and frankly, I think you should start simpler than this. Inertia is a factor that can only be played with if you have everything else basic under your control. I am afraid that you will risk just getting frustrated
I recommend you to make a couple of robots first! Strongly Be sure you are able to make a robot that drives out of places it got stuck first, reversing, finding way, before starting to skid around and add speed…
With due respect sir, I have
With due respect sir, I have indeed done some novelties, check my second and third video in :
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/node/26026
Also I taught it to write LMR!!
I just wanted to know how it skids, was trying a lot, I guess the velocity of my bot is’nt fast enough.
Anyway thanks a lot.
Trust me; I am just trying
Trust me; I am just trying to guide you
Even experienced builders get into hard times when inertia is part of the formula. It is not easy! In fact I have never seen anyone manage to do this trick, though a lot have tried. And you have just started, so my advice stands.
But don’t let a grumpy old man stand in your way, go for it
Since I do not have much
Since I do not have much experience with relays (ok, 30 years ago i had) i need to dig out this thread to ask you, if you can connect the relays directly with an Arduino (should be similar to your board) without drawing to much current on the output pin?
Do i need a flow back diode to save the MC?
Well, I know people say that
Well, I know people say that about relays. And I am sure that if I was to build this today, I’d use a darlington buffer between the relays and the Microcontroller. Or diodes.
But my cars drove for about 100-150 hours in total (one instance a whole week, with kids bumping RC cars into them), before the gears and wheels started to give in - not the Microcontroller.
I persume it also has a lot to do with what relays you are using.
At any case, I am just about the worst person to ask what is “the right thing to do” when it comes to electronics - I just build the stuff - and if it works, it does. I never fried a Picaxe, and I have even run motors with return-springs right from them. That is power right back at it - but they never complained
I will give it a try and
I will give it a try and connect them directly to the output…but will put a diode in between to get rid of backflow current in case the car is pushed by hand (kids are unpredictable right?)
Haha, can’t wait to see it running…
Thanks Fritsl
Yes, you cannot trust kids
Yes, you cannot trust kids
However, I am not sure of your project - if you are doing Robot Wall Racers - and am hooking stuff up the way I was, you will not get any backflow because of the car being pushed by hand.
Power flows straight from batteries to motors - routed only by the relays. That is the beuty of it Battery to motor - straight! So if you are using rechargables, you will in fact charge the batteries when free wheeling
The backflow would only occur when the diodes are switched on/off - as a case between the microcontroller, and the switches on the relays - isolated
Morning Fritsl, yes I want
Morning Fritsl, yes I want to copy your wall racers. Now it makes sense for me, thank you for explaining it again for my slow brain 
Wicked, I cant wait to see
Wicked, I cant wait to see where you will end with this
May I suggest to add a camera inside the car(s)? And possibly get a pair of video glasses, mout it al, so you can move your head, and thereby move the camera inside the car? Would be the coolest, an old dream of mine
Haha, you arfe as crazy as I
Haha, you are as crazy as I am (sometimes) but wall racers first.
Buuuut, do you mean like a VR. If i move my head to the right then the camera moves to the right too and give me the sight out of the right window? Yeah that would be cool but I think with those glasses on it’s a real chance to throw up the breakfast since the cars are moving like crazy ;-)))
