I trust you and your loved ones are doing well under the health lock down.
I received my RobotShop order yesterday, uploaded the sketch to the new BotBoarduino and installed it on my Phoenix and still the same non-result (not to fret, there’s a happy ending).
Fortunately, I had also ordered a new PS2 Controller with Rx interface as a backup. I replaced the Rx Module and the Bot now LIVES! Surprise is that it was not even the Rx Module itself but the PCB that the Rx Module plugs into which is crazy as I triple tested for continuity and shorts. This allows me to keep my “Red Beady Eyes” Module. This also means that I need to re-investigate the Old BotBoarduino which may not have an issue after all. I’ll keep you appraised.
I have reinforced the Rx Module Socket Pins to the PCB in 3 places with 14 Gauge Copper Wire soldered into place. Of the 9 Pins that are on the connector, only 6 are actually used and to prevent any undesired consequences, I only soldered/reinforced these 3 pins which is sufficient enough making the Achilles Heel of the Rx Module a non-issue. There is no longer any noticeable flex. I’ll post this “fix” when I’m all done.
While waiting for the package I added black braided fabric wrap to the exposed tri-colored servo lead bundles (about 90+% covered) which gives the Bot a cleaner and more ominous appearance. I also black shrink wrapped the battery and blacked out some hardware. I’ll post pictures when completed (still adjusting and tweaking).
I really do not like hot glue. Although convenient with great tear strength it has lousy shear strength which is required for flex protection. I have often encountered electrical and electronic devices using hot glue to protect and/or reinforce connections. I have always found it easy to remove these with little effort but not when Epoxy is used. My other choice was 5 min. Epoxy which has both great tear and shear strength and a little black touch up paint (a drop) makes it all black and visually covers up nicely.
The 3 solder joints seem to provide excellent protection. I also found this product on RobotShop’s website which I think I may try as well > Blockquote It seems to have already addressed the Achilles Heel of this Breakout Board.
I bought a spare PS2 Controller with Breakout Board and took pictures of my method to post so that others may have an option.
I have one last tweak to finish on the Bot and will have pictures to share by the end of tomorrow. There seems to be an optimum look that is somewhere between “science project” and off-the-shelf finished product (more order than chaos but still rough around the edges).
Please find pictures of my Phoenix “Blacked Out”. After using the Nylon Braided Wrap to cover all of the colorful servo leads, I noticed that the White Tamiya Connectors (on the wire harness and battery) were very obvious. I used an old trick using Rit Dye to change the connector color to black (I’ve done this before and it is quite simple). I did a few of these (both Male and Female) for the spare battery and future projects as well and have a Before and After picture on the Bot as well as some up close pictures of the connectors and the battery.
On the Bot pictures you can also see my work that wraps the Breakout Board Header Pins under the board to create a cleaner look. I also used shorter servo jumper leads in stead of the long leads that comes with the PS2 Kit.
All in all, I’m very pleased with the outcome and overall look of the “Finished” product.
It’s too bad the PCBs for the SSC-32U and BotBoarduino aren’t black, too!
I wonder if they could be covered with something without making them not-functional… Hmm, maybe a custom 3D-printer black case for each of them? I doubt that they heat up all that much and the holes for the connections would probably provide enough cooling.
Thank you for the compliment. It is always nice to receive peer approval and I appreciate the input regarding additional blacking out suggestions. None of our projects are completely our own (learning and borrowing from those who’ve come before) and it is great to collaborate and exchange ideas.
Yes, I did consider blacking out the BotBoarduino. I considered spray paint but concluded that it was too risky with possible unintended consequences. I also considered using the same thin Black Heat Shrink that I used on the battery pack to cover it entirely. I don’t think that the heat produced by the low setting of my heat gun would be sufficient enough to damage the PCB or its components and the tight wrap would allow identification of pin locations where a small Xacto blade cut for access would work for the necessary connections but that would cause another unintended consequence of blocking the LEDs as well. I have yet to purchase a 3D Printer and I like your suggestion of a box but the battery slot clearance (Bottom Body Plate to Bottom of SSC-32U) in my Bot build is just narrow enough for the battery to fit now.
I never considered blacking out of the SSC-32U, in the manner/s described above, due to the number of connections.
However, your input has me thinking that a compromise could just be blacking out the PCB edges which produce so much light vs. dark contrast (very noticeable in the pictures and similar to the White Tamiya Battery Connectors solution) and using an “O-Ring” of the Black Braided Nylon Wrap as a “filler” for the gap between the Upper Body Plate and the BotBoarduino which would obscure the view of the rat’s nest of folded tri-colored servo leads. I had originally planned to do this but ran out of the 3/8" diameter braid material which was thick enough to maintain its position in the gap. The areas where there are a bundle of 3 servo leads (Femur Servo to SSC-32U Sockets) required 3/8" braid and from the Femur Servo to the Knee Servo only required the 1/4" braid size (the 1/4" is tucked inside the ends of the 3/8" and then secured with mini black zip ties).
I’ll try an experiment with another similar colored PCB blacking out the edges with a Black Sharpie first (easiest least messy method) and if this fails to provide good coverage I can try flat black model paint and a steady hand.
Also a “curtain” of black material could be added to the top of the Bot (just below the Rx Module) which would wrap around the entire assembly. In effect, this would be a “box” of sorts. I’ll play with this idea a bit.
And BTW, if you ever decide to use the Black Nylon Braid Wrap in your projects (an inexpensive and common automotive product) be sure to buy more than you think you need and more than one size. Have a pair of sharp scissors handy and a Bic lighter to melt/fuse the braided ends for both practicality and aesthetics (if you think nylon rope frays easily, you’re in for a surprise with this stuff).
It is really amazing how much difference there is when only the edges of the BotBoarduino and SSC-32U PCBs are blackened out using a black Sharpie!
I also found a 9 inch piece of the of 3/8" braided material left over and installed it around the perimeter of the gap between the BotBoarduion and the top body plate. Please see the 3 new pictures attached.
I’m satisfied with this look and will not pursue any additional blackout measures (at least for now). At this point I think the Law of Diminishing Returns applies.
Wow! Lots of good ideas in there!
I have to say I mostly skip aesthetics in most of my projects… so it is great to hear more about that! Maybe it is because I find the firmware very aesthetically pleasing and stop there?
If you do end up doing more for the PCBs please post more more pics!
Yes, the majority of my projects really never see the “light of day” and any efforts regarding aesthetics is more or less an exercise in futility as these are for self interest and proof of concept (if I think it I can make it?). I have “repackaged” and neatened up only a few projects which are very presentable and for which I can take some pride but the rest look like science projects and Rube Goldberg Machines!
However, this particular Bot is way beyond a simple project for my own amusement and test of skill level and has already been shared with family members with great reception due to its “WOW Factor” and I thought that the effort to instill a more aesthetically pleasing form would pay off for all.
My last tweak is to create a “costume” for the Bot (mentioned in another conversation string). It will comprise of a half of a plastic sphere shell painted black and may or may not have black material glued on. There will be 2 red LEDs for eyes and a speaker powered by a 5V audio player circuit both powered by the BotBoarduino. This will cover the entire top portion of the Bot circuit complex including the toggle ON/OFF switch and attach with a little Velcro for easy adapting between functioning forms (hopefully a hit at Halloween). I found a number of sci-fi audio wav files on FreeSound which may do the trick for creating an entertaining audio track loop.
BTW, regarding “firmware aesthetics” I never heard back from anyone (except for you and your identification of GP Player code line numbers) on my GP Player Function request for assistance. I’m surprised that no one else has approached this subject and shared. I’m willing to try myself but… Do I need to change code in more than one tab (I imagine that the PS2 Library already allows for the “X” Button and Select Button Functionality)? Can I use the SSC-32 Servo Sequencer Utility to program the action sequence that I want and then insert the code where appropriate in the GP Player reserved code line area? If so, how do I save the sequence generated then add the sequence to the sketch? Etc., etc. etc… You’re probably aware by now that anything that I “create” will be shared with the Forum Community.
Also, I would be more than happy to assist you (or offer any desired input) to any of your projects which you want to tweak aesthetically.
Thanks again for mentoring me through the complexities of this build!
Impressive stuff! I’m always amazed by the creativity of all the makers I see online… I just don’t have any drive towards any of it myself. But then, if you show me something like this (source):
Then my brain lights up with all the possibilities at my disposal and the techniques I could use!
It is too bad that there is not much info about its use anywhere. Your best best is to use the old SSC-32 manual as a reference. It has in it a section concerning the GP and how to use it. You can find this here.
I’ll try and answer any question you have about it but just know I’ll be finding my answers there, too. I do not have much direct experience with it other than just trying basic motions and making sure they work. The main point of the GP is to alleviate how many commands must be sent to play a sequence. It should be quite straightforward to use.
From what I remember, the key points are as follows:
You have to indicate where each sequence points to in the EEPROM.
You have to write valid sequences into those locations.
It is a very generic system with lots of options but you’ll have to manage every byte that is written in there in advance.
As for the sequencer software, as far as I know, cannot be used to fill this data. I think the original use of the GP was with large excel-style spreadsheets with many IK calculations. People would use those to generate a set of sequences and then input those in the SSC-32 and have their code tell the SSC-32 to play those sequences at the right time.
Thanks for the offer. I’ll let you know if that ever comes up. For now, all of my personal projects are either hidden (embedded) or 1s & 0s and therefore have no visible aesthetics!
Thank you for the reply and information. I will definitely do some research and give it a try.
Our creative interests seem to be complimentary.
Regarding the “Excel-Style Spreadsheet” is this to what you are referring: LynxMotion Webpage ?
Also, apparently Zenta has already programmed the sequence (attack pose with front legs moving up and down) for the Phoenix that I intend to create. Do you think he would be wiling to share? Once I have this sequence figured out I plan on creating 3 more (possibly a demo “dance”, a wave, etc.).
BTW, I downloaded and opened the Excel file “PEP ver2.02LMbeta” which is available on the LynxMotion webpage in my earlier message. I don’t know if you’ve personally ever looked at it but it is extremely complex, without any instructions or steps to follow (at lease I didn’t see any) and seems to be in Dutch (yikes!).
Although this seems to be a valuable tool its like I’m a Neanderthal being handed a Logic Circuit Tester.
I may be in over my head here (which explains the bubbles I see passing upwards in front of my eyes).
