DIY Remote control Casing

Just a part list…

Since this is a “Beta” release… Maybe i will change hardware…
If you suggest a better Hardware (if it’s cheaper or just better quality… or easyer to have) Let me know… :wink:

2x Sliding Potentiometer
ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PTA6043-2015DPB103virtualkey65210000virtualkey652-PTA60432015DPB10
1,90$ X 2 = 3,80$

2x Potentiometer Knob
ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=S773H-29-Mvirtualkey55000000virtualkey550-S773H-29-M
0,50$ X 2 = 1,00$

8x (Or less it’s up to you) Toggle switch
“” EDIT “”
Lynxmotion switch are less expensive… !!!
lynxmotion.com/p-280-dpdt-mini-power-switch.aspx
1,50 X 8 = 12,00$
ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/M2012S3A1W01-RO/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYLHU4uX1D5pVvJoQ26Mm5hE%3d
2,96$ X 8 = 23,68$

9x (Or less it’s up to you) Push button
ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mountain-Switch/103-1123-EVX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs2Wv7C45tVfC7M4VKpZVNM
1,21$ X 9 = 10,89$

2x Round Potentiometer
ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/RK09L114001T/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvYU0Oh5y3R5qEp0DMsxK8g
1,16$ X 2 = 2,32$

uOLED-128-G1 LCD display
4dsystems.com.au/prod.php?id=78

    • 50$

4x4 Matrix Keypad (The one Kurte and others have use)
elexp.com/cmp_1604.htm
6,25$

9x Hex Stand from Lynxmotion (Bag of 10)
lynxmotion.com/p-654-aluminum-hex-standoffs-ff-1-1516-x-14-4-40-tapped-10.aspx
8,95$

Screws
lynxmotion.com/p-137-steel-socket-head-screws-12-x-4-40-100.aspx
5,35$

Total:
3,80 + 1,00 + 23,68 + 10,89 + 2,32 + 50 + 6,25 + 8,95 + 5,35 = 112,24$ (Outch…)

Anyone have a better way to supply ?

since the casing will most likely cost 45$ to produce… it will be like + or - 150$

Let me know what you think !!

BTW:
The design was made for Eflite Gimbals… since i have a TX that’s laying around. There is some used on ebay.
And if you would like i can design for others… like Hitec that Robot Dude will provide.

I got the quote from the cuting.
Here is the PDF file they send me to approve.

Mine is ordered at that time. I will show you what it look when i will have it.

Feel free to make any comments.

Since the gimbals are not something i can buy alone, i will probably change the drawing to someting avalible on the market.
Probably the one Lynxmotion will sell.

Will change the layout when i will have correct dimension of thoses !
[size=150]

““EDIT””

I did a little mistake on the conversion from SolidWorks to DXF files. And the “Dialfonzo” didn’t come the right way.
But the guy at Pololu notice it and ask me if i want him to correct it… !! What a wonderfull service !!![/size]

this is great news. you are moving fast with this. :wink:
i will leave the spec and hardware to someone more experienced with this. like kurt perhaps. :wink:

the price is pretty good.

Hi all,

I have send another Quote request for a Simplified casing to try reducing the price.
Added Plates to bolt on Screen and keypad hole.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5474114750_837b577ca0.jpg

Complete set of pictures and drawing:
flickr.com/photos/55725351@N08/sets/72157626128142460/

Have you considered an aluminum panel and box?

Did I miss what radio and controller (and prices) you’re using?

Alan KM6VV

I have think about Aluminium.
The place i have find for the lasercuting service don’t do metal things. So… that’s why.

There is another problem. If i use Metal i will need to have a remote antenna XBee… but that’s not a big deal…

For the Transmitter u have use:
http://www.rcboca.com/images/P/EFLH1040.jpg

But i can make other fit… :wink:

EDIT:

You probably mean the TX RX i will use…
Sorry i didn’t understand you that way… (My poor english again)

I want to use XBee

Oh that’s right XBee for TX. Although somewhere I got the idea that a TX (R/C band) module was being contemplated. Might have been another project.

And a BasicAtomPro?

Alan KM6VV

Yes BasicAtom Pro 28 on Robot side.

Casing Cut, and shipped.
Will have it next week probably…!

Ok i want your feedback on that:

Do you think using 2 or more of thoses to remplace the RC gimbals is a good idea ?

sparkfun.com/products/9032
sparkfun.com/products/9110

You could try them. I thought about it, but I have the impression that they may have the same quality as the joysticks within PS2 controllers.

Kurt

yes this is the reason for me wanting to change from the PS2 to a DIY. they have poor resolutions. :neutral_face:

Ok that’s heard.
Just want to find an easy way to supply gimbals.

Do anybody know a way to buy them alone ?

E-flite tx use is about 35 40 $…

I have some (different mfg) of the first “thumb joysticks”. Interesting solution for small space, but I’d want a really good joystick on the box. Commercial joysticks would be even better!

Alan KM6VV

Ok i will try something else…
I have sent a couple of emails to compagnies who sell joystick… waiting now

I want to know:
Does the hardware itself is poor on the PS2 joystick… or it lost some in the process of sending infos ?

a very good point. interesting.
i would personally say that its the hardware. i find that some of the time im having to adjust the Deadzone or tolerance of the stick values just to stop it from making my robots think the sticks are not at centre, making them move on there own because values are not at 0.

Could be mechanical, inexpensive pots, temp change, limited A/D conversion resolution.

Remember the pulse width is encoded into an RF envelope (R/C xmitter), more analog parts. Similar for the PS2, but digital bytes encoded.

Alan KM6VV

I got some time today to try the Arduino board. And make my first “C” program… lol

I have made a little soft that take 14 digital input and 8 analog input.
The only thing it does is capture thoses inputs and transfert them in a string to the serial port.

I have to begin somewhere… lol

In the video you see 8 Zero and at a point some change to “1”… Thoses are logic input.
After i have 8 analog input separate by “-”.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5482449250_3a75d4f225.jpg
High Res:
farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5482449250_3a75d4f225_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5482449678_1d45a82436.jpg
High Res:
farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5482449678_1d45a82436_b.jpg

That’s a different Arduino. I have been programming the UNO, and we’ve made a 'bot for our HBRC Robotics Class.

http://www.marconettengineering.com/DSCN3112B.jpg

Shown with a prototype board, forward and floor-looking IR detectors.

Alan KM6VV

I think the two boards are mainly the same. Just more I/O and memory on the Mega. I would have take a UNO but i need more than 6 A/D.
I will post my code tomorrow. but nothing exceptionnal here… lol