I have use my FTDI adaptor to switch the “Firmware” on mine.
Now if we go forward with that i will order the 3.2" one
Thanks for the code.
Very interesting… you know i want a DIY remote for a long time… 
Sounds good.
I was starting to look at my DIY board, to see how hard it will be to convert from pdib to TQFP layout for… Will probably need to reroute the board.
While I am at it, may convert over from discrete logic to chip to do voltage conversion for XBee, like Parallax boards do.
Kurt
Nice…
Don’t spend too much time convert it…
It will just look better… ?
shut, you need extra hardware to change it to SGC mode? dam need to order it 
On my 128pixel i don’t need anything but a normal FTDI adaptor…
With all of them it just needs a normal FTDI adapter. I simply ordered their version as they say if you don’t use it, it voids the warrantee. But how would they know.
Kurt
Hey DiaLFonZo,
I was just checking out some of my brothers stuff on RCgroups and saw some comments from you. Does Tosjduenfs sound familiar? Haha, small world. You’ve got some great looking multirotors on there.
HaHa… Yes very small world…
He is doing nice frame too and his material calculation are very good. Never dig in that…
my touchscreen will get here the 15th
Why that sad face… that’s quick…
Here is the files that are in the assembly.
Note that the Joystick are not match to the reality… they are from my old assembly.
Will do a new part that reflect the 2D-3D that Lynxmotion sell.
DiaLFonZo - DIY Remote (12-10-2012.zip (2.06 MB)
YUP
With the true gimbal (not really good model but size reflect the reality…)
Aslo put the screen in Landscape…!!
Now need to look for the space under for the electronics…
One thing you will note in my Arduino DIY thread, was I killed one of my 1.5" displays when I bent the ribbon cable connecting the actual display to the actual controller board… So need to be careful to make sure room for it…
Not sure what real products do for this, they may build some form of slight cover with a hollow area that avoids this with out leaving a visible gap.
Kurt
Maybe… Obviously you don’t want to cover the touch part of the screen… You can see pictures again at: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7422&start=126
The idea is the main mounting plate that the hole is large enough that the wires don’t touch… On the 1.5" one, the cover that Robot Dude made for me, was smaller and then I used some foam spacers behind that held it away… But the screen is recessed and you can see gaps… Alternatively would make the main hole larger where there are gaps and then have some form of molding over the edge of it… My guess is once you have one in hand you will figure out which way you want to go…
In your previous picture, you show 2 2D joysticks plus 4 knobs (8 Analog values)… My current Arduino version is 2 3D (actually 4d as has buttons on top), plus 3 sliders (so 9 Analog so far). I still wish to play with with accelerometers so probably maybe 3 more. Plus battery voltage… So still want about 12-14 Analog inputs… My board has 14 as while the 644p has 8, I took over 2 of them and went to a mux. But I only have 12 3 pin headers so far… One of the two extras went for battery and the last one just had a pin as I did not have room… May rectify.
Will probably be busy on other stuff most of today and tomorrow so may be few days.
Kurt
Yes i was looking to leave a gap surounding the screen so nothing touch it and it screw flat on the case.
I would go for I2C accelerometer and such… i have cheap IMU that are made for Multiwii Multicopter controller that integrate Gyroscope - Accelerometer - Magnetometer - Barometer all on the same i2C bus and are made to use on Arduino…
I would also go for 3D or 4D gimbal… so maybe remove the knob potentiometer ?
OK… am i serious about that… !!!
So…???
looking good =)