oh ok i just saw a video of
oh ok i just saw a video of it on youtube and i realized that bbs are not in the mag as it goes for standard airsoft rifles but at the top! didn’t know that
You’re awesome at
You’re awesome at documenting your projects! It’s always very interesting to see in detail how you did all the stuff and see all the cool images - even though it tends to be more and more violent… I fear for poor little drum machine’s life! ;-).
I do think I personally would have skipped the 555 timer based emitter circuit and just used a PWM-pin to drive the 38 KHz signal - much easier to get up and running IMHO and you get a lot closer to the desired frequency as opposed to fiddling with the trimpots, resistors and capacitors in the emitter circuit I think, although it does give some builder’s satisfaction to do it in hardware :-).
You know, it never even
You know, it never even occurred to me to just have each robot’s microcontroller do the 38khz modulation 
But now that I’ve got this working, I do prefer it this way, so that I can just solder up little IR emitter boards that I can just mount to each of my robots without having to modify the robots’ programming at all. But thanks for the hint, I probably would have done it the easy way too if I’d thought of it
Maybe my next project will be hugbots, whose sole purpose in life is to find each other and give each other a hug
Dan
Make love not war!
Make love not war!
I give 10 points to the
I give 10 points to the first one who make 2 or more randy fu*kbots!
10 points if smaller robots
10 points if smaller robots pop out 9 months later.
No, dude, that would be
No, dude, that would be plain sick. Like giving cigarettes to trees or something!
Better idea… one bot
Better idea… one bot lights up a cigarette afterward…
Now stop it, you are sick!
Now stop it, you are sick!
aiming for recoil
I don’t know if it’s recoil, but the gun seems to veer to the left when firing?
diagrams and parts list?
Hey dude, this is really cool! I was also wondering if you could post circuit diagrams and parts lists for the IR detector and transmitter, I was thinking of doing a similar thing.
Thanks!
-Ted
Hey that 38khz emmiter looks
Hey that 38khz emmiter looks pretty good. Is there a way to see the circut diagram from you.
Also how’d you get you infared sensor to be so sensitive? My robot can barely see the infared signal.
Some things are better left un-asked for…
Check out :
http://www.zprod.org/PG/machines/sexedRobots.htm
and even a video :
Thanks. I haven’t yet
Thanks. I haven’t yet learned to use software like Eagle to draw circuit diagrams, but my emitter circuit is based off of the circuit on this page, and the detector is simply a Panasonic PNA4612 in a simple circuit with a voltage regulator for power and capacitors to smooth the signal as described by the PNA4612’s datasheet. I think the sensitivity is totally due to that PNA4612 – it’s designed to be used to detect remote control signals across a room. If anything, it’s TOO sensitive – what I’m working on now is trying to make it LESS sensitive and more directional by coating it in black paint and using that metal tube to limit its field of view.
I think that having the signal modulate at 38 kHz helps a lot in detecting it across longer distances – a bare IR LED can be seen just as easily, but it can’t easily be picked out from the rest of the light in the room, which also has components in the infrared range. But when it’s flashing at a specific frequency, it’s easier to isolate it.
Good luck. I plan to figure out how to draw schematics in Eagle, and I’ll post some schematics of my circuits when I do – if nothing else, just for my own future reference.
Dan
http://money.cnn.com/2007/12/
http://money.cnn.com/2007/12/03/technology/robotex.fortune/index.htm?postversion=2007120412
I m developing a wireless
I m developing a wireless sensor network recently. One of the hardwares is IR detector. By my DIY IR detector have a very low sensing distance. I had watch ur ID detector video in your "BullyBot" project. Its seem the sensing range is quite good. What sensor u are using? I m using OP599A for my detector and my circuit is very simple(c below).
See the 2008/7/2 entry: "I
See the 2008/7/2 entry: "I just received my Digikey order containing a bunch of Panasonic PNA4612’s, which are IR detectors originally designed for use in electronics appliances like VCRs for detecting the remote control signal from across the room. The specified max range is “minimum 11m, typical 18m”. I hope that those will do what I want – all I’ll have to do is modulate the IR LED on the other robots at 38 kHz so this sensor can detect them."
And then on 2008/7/7: "I also did some work on the IR detection. Building the detector circuit was simple – the sensors I ordered output a voltage that’s high when no 38 kHz signal is detected, and low when it detects a signal."
These sensors have great range, but I’m actually having a hard time LIMITING their sensitivity to me more directional. I guess that’s better than not having the range at all
Dan
Motion!
Glad to hear that Bullybot is moving! Good info that the caps enabled function there.
About tracks jumping,I’d read where some home-built tracks had been made based on a design that did not jump off. What I could see in these tracks was that the sprockets engaged pins on the outside and inside edge of the track. Now you really couldn’t change that on the Tamiya tracks, but it might be possible to make some guide idlers that the tracks rest in, maybe even a couple (upper and lower) on the ends. Might help, just a guess.