** QRD-1114 reflective sensor**
Does the QRD-1114 reflective sensor need som kind of programing to run?
Please read the datasheet.
Please read the datasheet. Answers are in there.
cny70
if i use a cny70 reflective sensor does it has the same pin connection or the pin connections of qrd1114 and cny70 are different??does it have the same designation of connection in their pins??? or not??
cny70
if i use a cny70 reflective sensor does it has the same pin connection or the pin connections of qrd1114 and cny70 are different??does it have the same designation of connection in their pins??? or not??
cny70
another question sir if i use cny70 do i have to change the resitor 68 ohms?? or its also the same resistor use in qrd1114??
My answer is, read the
My answer is, read the datasheets for both components, and determine the answer for yourself.
You will learn much more that way than if I tell you.
** My answer is, read the**
My answer is, read the datasheets for both components, and determine the answer for yourself.
You will learn much more that way than if I tell you.
can i use RS05F sensor
can i use RS05F sensor
Yes, I think so. Check out
Yes, I think so. Check out the datasheet.
You want to keep the forward current (If) through the IR LED less than the absolute max of 50 mA (way less). Maybe aim for about 25-30 mA to be safe. To calculate the resistor you need, look in the datasheet for the forward voltage (Vf) of the diode. Substract that voltage from the supply voltage from your battery. That will be the voltage across your current limiting resistor. Use Ohm’s Law to select a value for the resistor that will keep the LED from blowing up.
Be sure to observe the pinout for this chip, as it may be different than for the QRD-1114 or the CNY70. If you connect voltage across the LED without a resistor, it will go ‘poof’ and you will have a dead LED.
Also note in the datasheet the sensing distance (L). When placing your sensor on the robot, try to maximize the reflective light current by placing the sensor a distance above the ground that has the best refective current.
Good luck. Let me know how it goes with this sensor. I’ve never used it before.
Yes, I think so. Check out
thanks to that helpful info i now know what resistance i can use in cny70 but can you help me to determine the pins of cny70 the data sheet is so hard to understand on how determine where to find the pin designation??? unlike the qrd114 the pin1 has an indicator/marker so it is easier to find the pins designation but in th data sheet of cny70 there is no marker or indicator where to find the pin1 etc.! plss help ^^ thanks in advance
Yeah, the marking on the
Yeah, the marking on the CNY70 is less clear than the QRD1114. If you look carefully at the datasheet, you can see that one side of the CNY70 is labeled ‘Marking area’. From that you can tell which pin in which.
Yes, I think so. Check out
hey i already build my version of spurtbot using cny70 i use 39 ohms is it ok??? the left motor is running but the right motor is not running even if i put in a white or black environment but still no reaction in right motor 
can you help me out ASAP please reply ASAP tnx
To answer your first
To answer your first question, read this post on choosing the right resistor for an LED. As I have said, keep the current through the LED well below the absolute maximum.
If the right motor (the one controlled by the sensor) doesn’t respond, there are a few things that could be wrong.
Double check your connections to the CNY70. Be sure you have it connected correctly.
If you ever applied power (even for a moment) across the LED without the current limiting LED, you probably blew the LED, and your sensor is dead. If you have a digital camera, you can look at your sensor while it is powered up, and you should be able to see a blue glow from the LED. This is because the camera can see IR light, even though your eye cannot. This is a simple way to test if your LED is working still.
LDR instead of reflective sensor
Hello,
this is a very nice project, thanks!
I’m looking into building a line follower with kids and I’m currious if I could replace the sensor with LED and LDR - and perhaps a darlington pair?
My electronics-fu is a little rusty, I’ve seen ALF and other analog line follower online, but I’d like to use a one-motor-controll solution. The sensor seems to be hard to source here, plus I would like to decrease the cost so the students can take it home, too.
? LDR instead ?
Hi Schorhr, I cannot recommend to use an LDR. I myself have done so as you can see on this page: http://spurt.pbworks.com/w/page/9145781/Simpelmobil
But I have found that it is very intricate to adjust ambient light in a way the robot can work on. I would not try it again - its mere an art than science. So I strongly recommend to use a reflective sensor sliding on the table surface way.
Cheers – Hartmut
Hello Hartmut,thank you for
Hello Hartmut,
thank you for the link and the information!
That does sound frustrating 
Though It would only be a small project with a limited time frame (~1 hour), as long as it somewhat works… 
The circuit of the Simpelmobil is exactly what I had in mind. Perhaps with a poti, darlington, if required, or let the students modify it and build a version with a different sensor later…
I will see if I have components here that are suited and try it anyway, and see how it performs. Would a LED be a simple method to enhance contrast and improve performance in difficult lighting conditions?
If it won’t work at all I’ll take your advice and build something different with them. As they have no experience with electronics I am trying to keep it as simple as possible.
Danke & Gruß,
Marcus
Howto start Spurtbotting
Hello Marc, I would suggest proceeding in three levels:
First (simplest): http://www.imd.uni-rostock.de/spurt/doc/spurt-53.htm Try several light receivers to start/stop a motor, E.g. LDR, photodiode, phototransistor etc. Even a LED together with a darlington might work since each LED also works as a light receiver (a bit less efficient than a photodiode). You also can try a solar cell from an old pocket calculator. A tiny bit tape glued at the motor axis lets you better whatch its spinning. With enough bright light and enough dark shadow it wil be possible in most cases to start/stop the motor by brightness intensity.
Second: Instead of bright sunlight from the window and dark shadow try pointing at several bright or dark surfaces whether it is possible to start/stop the motor. You will find that there are different grades of brighness and darkness which our human eye does not detect in the same way as the “electronic eye”. So you will find some devices that work in the desired way.
Third: Now you need to find a motor which is suited to drive a mobile. This might be harder than it sounds. You need a motor with low current, low speed, high torque, long enough axis (more than 10 milimeters) and possibly not too much voltage need. You will find dozens of motors which will not work in the desired way. Andrew Terranova’s description tells which motor will work.
I wish you good luck for all your tries. Maybe you can report something on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Spurt-Wettbewerb/341657232527946
Cheers – Hartmut
Hello Hartmut,thank you
Hello Hartmut,
thank you again for all the advice, I really apreceate it!
Yes, I have build such circuits when I was younger (such as the LED as light detector), unfortunately I still have not unpacked all electronics stuff after moving to a new apartment I hope I can digg through my stuff this weekend and build something.
The quest for cheap and suited motors is what is next, I am currently looking into the pager/iphone vibration motors as they are commonly available and very cheap (0,22 Euro / ~0,30 US Dollars), so I could make a inexpensie kit they could take home for free.
They aren’t that powerful and usualy high RPM I think (sometimes used in tiny rc planes), an alternative would be modding a servo perhaps.
I have one of the small motors somewhere, and a 3d printer in case I need to print a gear drive, though I hope I can make the stuff with household items
But it’s all not very critical. Even if the “robot” just whizzes through the room the (young) kids will probably have a blast anyway.
I’m still digging through Aliexpress, where some LDR cost 3 Cent each (including shipping, under the tax/duty-free value). But I have no clue about what components will work, so I’ll buy a few of that type locally until I have a working prototype.
Have a nice weekend!
cheap and easy
Hello again,
if you just want a toy for the kids you could try a look at this model I built: http://www.rn-wissen.de/index.php/Beam#Eine_Art_Chaos-K.C3.A4fer
You can decorate the upper side of the CD with a nice animal picture (Chaos Beetle)
You need to protect the screws with some rubber sleeve for they don’t scratch your floor.
Cheers – Hartmut
Hello Hartmut,that’s a nice
Hello Hartmut,
that’s a nice idea as well, thanks I’ll keep that in mind for the even younger children!.
I also considered building a bristle bot drive instead of wheels as the cheapest motor come with a vibration-weight attached.
Have a nice day
-Marcus