BoB the Biped and Me: BoB finally gets his lights

Finally got viable PCBs for the LED array. Even still I burned up two out of three of the boards and several microcontrollers with various mistakes but the last one was a winner.

Front and back:

 

I used some SMD male headers to make power and I2C connections with the main board. To program the TQFP '328 was a challenge. I could program the ATTinys before soldering them on the board but not the '328. There was no room for tradional headers either. I used some test pads connected to the MISO, MOSI, SCK, and RESET lines. Then I put a via in the middle of the pad to serve as a socket for a standard male-to-male jumper wire:

Eagle CAD complained about it but it works well. It was tedious in the fact that every time I wanted to make a change to the LED patterns I had to unplug everything and setup the programming rig but at least I could.

Since the wiring was tight and the accessability to the connector was a bit buried I knew gluing the board to the chassis would pose a few problems. Instead I decided to adhere the board with this blue gooey, rubbery adhesive compound called Tack-it or Blu-tack. In my youth teachers used it to hold paper to walls or bulletin boards or whatever. It works well:

 

The board is sized to nestle between the servo mounting hardware for some support. The blue goo doesn't even give up when the LEDs start to warm eveything up.

I didn't post a video because it looks terrible just like the other LED demo vid I made. Trust me, it's more of the same thing. Glowing. Flashing. Pulsing. Good stuff.

This was the last step of the physical build. After some tuning of the communications and LED patterns SilentBoB was ready for gameday, which was only hours away. It was close but the project was completed on time and the extra mojo I believe helped the team to victory. Completely worth it.

Nice work

Thanks for the update. I know CtC had a bunch of bare smd '328s. He clothes pined them to a board that he could plug a programmer in to. Not sure about the exact board. Maybe you can spend a few bucks and get one of those SMD boards that bring the pins out to .1" headers?