@Abheerup You are correct to assume that powering normal RC servos at 11.1V will destroy them. Most 9g servos consume more current than normal standard sized RC servos, so using the ATMega’s pins to provide power is out of the question. You can split the output from the 11.1V; part of it goes to power the Arduino directly, and the other goes to the regulator (which can handle up to 1.5V) to power the servos. You would need to split the servo cables as well: red and black to the regulator, and signal and black to the Arduino.
i have UDI U818A quad-copter and 3.7 li-po batt at 500ma or the largest updrade @ 1.3a is a joke for flight time 10 minutes (maybe)
can i make a pack out of 3aa ni-mh ELB2800! the batteries should hold up that alot longer flight time do you think the electronics of the 3.7v copter can handle nominal voltage of (roughly 4.5v)
@Robo Lis Most quadcopters have a flight time of 10-15 minutes, with a few around 20min. It’s always a compromise between storage capacity and battery weight.
so would i damage the electronic with 4.5 volt power (i’m leaning toward 3aa @ 4.5 v)
or should i go to li-ion 3.1a single rated at 3.7v
@Robo Lis 3xAA would weigh considerably more than a 3.7V LiPo of the same capacity, and might not be able to provide the required discharge current. Also, the electronics may not be able to handle 4.5V.
thanks so back to square one or perhaps a single li-ion @3.7 THANK YOU
I found a great tip how to chose a right battery for a solar power system http://www.patriotdirect.org/choosing-the-right-batteries/
G’day, if I put a 12v battery in a 1.5V device by mistake is that likely to kill the motor??
@aughany Likely yes.
Hello, I’m still a little confused with lipo batteries. I’m currently using a 7.4volt 2000mAh 50C Lectron Pro lipo battery with continuous discharge. I picked this up because this beast should be able to output 100 Amps (2000mAh*50C/1000, yes?) I’m using this to run 6 Hi-tec servos and I’m approximating 1.5 A load with approx. 5v requirements each. In other words, there is enough amperage and the voltage is more than suffice. I created step-down voltage regulators. However, when I run them, it seems to run only when there is a limited amount of servos attached…seems to indicate not enough current?
Is my calculations correct?
@Rob if you’re using a voltage regulator to drop the voltage, the output current is then restricted to what max current the regulator can provide.
can you please recommend a battery to power up 17 mg996r motor for my robot?
@ahasan Unfortuantely RobotShop does not sell the MG996R. Do you plan to use the servo at full torque and if so, know the maximum current of the servo under full load? If not, you need an estimate of the current for each servo, as well as how many of the 17 servos you’ll be using at any given time.
mg996r : running current - 500ma-900ma (6 volt)
stall current - 2.5 A(6 volt)
breakdown voltage-20 volt
do you think using a 11.1v 5000mah lipo battery with be useful?
@ahasan If you have all 17 servos in a stall condition (operating at stall torque), they will consume 17x2.5A = 42.5A. The LiPo battery would need to discharge at 42.5A / 5 = 8.5C. Look at the LiPo battery’s ‘C’ rating to see if it can do above 8.5C continuous discharge. Again, hopefully you will never encounter stall conditions on all servos.
Do you think that Turnigy nano-tech 12800mah 2S 40~80C Lipo Pack battery will work for me?
i tried the Turnigy nano-tech 12800mah 2S 40~80C Lipo Pack battery. but my 17 dof robot servos vibrates a lot. too much vibration. what could be the problem?
i suppose the 12800mah battery doesn’t constantly give 12.8 amp? do you think high current can make my MG996r servos vibrate ? can i use any kind of shield for proper servo currents with the arduino and the battery?
@ahasan The “C” rating for discharge tells you how much current the battery can provide, where “C” is the battery capacity, but in Amps (not amp hours). 1C discharge for a 12.8Ah battery would mean 1x12.8A = 12.8A. You said it can discahrge at 40C to 80C, to that means 512A to 1024A. Regarding using an Arduino Shield, it needs to be able to handle ~17A of current - it gets “iffy”.