Yes, the extra DOF is nice, especially true for people who probably have a lot more dexterity than I do . But I do find that they do not self center as well as the Hitec ones I have. That is, with the Hitec ones, after we go through the startup calibration, it always goes back to the center value (128) and for the most part never off by more than 1 usually 0⦠With the new ones, I am often seeing it off by 3 or 4, which is enough to have the robot continue to walk or the like. Note this is more when you are slowly moving the stick and then stop, versus when you are off center quite a ways and release⦠Sometime I would like to try the new ones that Lynxmotion Carries and see how well they work. With those you can also choose if you wish for them to self-center or can also be used for things like body heightā¦
That would be great! KĆ„re managed to get 3 tiny wires through the stick using a lathe. I donāt have the tools to do that Do you have the tools to do that with the new aurora gimballs? Or isnāt that even possible with this model?
I also googled for some 3-axis joysticks and found a website that has many different ones. Sadly enough they donāt provide any prices on there website. I think they have the same as you have Kurt. But they also have some expensive looking ones.
Maybe they also have a good price/quality version for robot hobbyist? Maybe something for in LMās product list? What do you think?
Edit
I think Kurt has these
But maybe they have something with beter quality (read better return to the centre) which isnāt to expensive.
Maybe this or this is an option?
I have the Delta packet mode working (I think). I have tried to make it, such that, it will only send out the new packets if the client sends out a new request (different packet type number). The clients only send out the new request packets, if they receive a new message from the transmitter saying that they are a new transmitter⦠So hopefully we should be able to mix and match.
Note: the above does not work around the fact that many of my earlier clients were pretty stupid, in that if they receive a message with more data than they want to handle, the punt and donāt process any of the data. So if you have a new remote that sends out additional information, like the Knobs, or third slider, or additional button data, they plain donāt work.
I also uploaded a Version 2.1 beta Phoenix 2.1 code base that uses this for an Arc32 Phoenix. That is up on the thread: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7658
I also updated the BAP28 transmitter code as well and uploaded an updated version to the main DIY remote control for XBee thread.
The new OLED is finally arriving today. Only took 1.5-2 Weeks to make it here from Robotshop But maybe it was good that it took awhile, as late yesterday I got a reply from 4DSystems about the issueā¦
So if you look at the image (of the current one), where at the bottom you see the tan stuff, this can not be bent, which implies that the OLED probably needs to sit recessed slightly into the case to keep it from being destroyed (again). Probably need to make the hole a bit smallerā¦
Gimme the actual size you want and I will cut it out for you. I will also set you up with a second DIY radio using the Hitec gimbals for your testing. Please tell me what other holes you want or donāt want on the spare.
Sounds great. The only new hole on the existing one that I added was for the reset buttonā¦
Now for the OLED: Using the Micrometer, I am thinking that we could decrease the hole size:
For horizontal, I am thinking move the Left and right in by .75mm each, I think that makes the hole 32.5mm
Vertical: Move top down .75 mm, the bottom should be about 31mm below the topā¦
Hope that makes sense.
The Hitec Gimbals sound like fun⦠I guess the question should be what display to use for it? What processor, slidersā¦
Here are the dims for the current version. From the picture it looks to me that the bottom of the square hole should go up? Can you refer to the drawing and list the changes. Sorry I didnāt understand the changes.
In your drawing you show the horizontal hole as 25.50m? I think it is more like 34mm, by my digital caliper. I think this should go down to 32.5 with the same center.
On the Vertical side, I think I am measuring around 35mm, may have been slightly less (maybe 34.5?) than this when you shipped it as I think I tried to slightly enlarge it here⦠What I was trying to say is I think this hole should be about 31mm. Now assuming it was 34.5, which is making the hole smaller by 3.5mm, but instead of taking 1.75" from the top and bottom, I was think maybe lower the top by only .75mm and raise the bottom, by 2.75mm.