Maybe make a little brass bezel?
Burrs cut differently then real endmills. look for something like an 1/8" endmill from any of the various suppliers. MSC comes to mind. The corners will have a radius, but you can take that out with a small jeweler’s file.
Alan KM6VV
Also the screws for the keypad are 2-56. I will send you some longer ones when I make the new panel for you. 
Hi Jim (and others),
Been playing around some 
, but I am not going as quickly as I should as I have been pretty busy with other things (probably as it is summer 
I have mounted most of the hardware to see where things would fit. You can see the inside in the following picture.
Currently I have 1.5" standoffs screwed into the cover as this is the depth I have inside the case(minus maybe a few bumps).
by the OLED-128 document, It implies the hole for the OLED should be 33.3mm square (or 1.31"). I think this would work, but the display will not fully make it through the hole as especially on the bottom, they overlap with a real thin ribbon cable. but I think it would fit flush with the bottom of the hole.
I ordered some standoffs from Digikey: that are the 4-40, in the 5/8, 3/4, 7/8 sizes. So I think one of these will work for lowering the sliders some.
As you can see the battery should mount great below the keypad.
I am thinking of drilling 4 more holes in the cover to mount some standoffs to hold the microcontroller. I am thinking that the board should be about 1/2 inch above the center of the bottom mounting hole or about .75 from the bottom. I think there is just enough room to horizontally center the board in that area. Currently I am thinking of mounting the boards with the connections pointing up. I am hoping that I will have enough room for the 7/8 standoffs, but may run into issues with the screws hitting bottom, so may end up with 3/4". I thought of turning it over and mount the board to the top plate with the connections hanging down, but that has issues that the hole pattern would be different (Seeeduino Mega in this case. Also hard to get the USB connection. Also wonder about hanging from board with shield hanging below it, about potential of coming lose. Not overly worried as there are over 100 pins holding them to each other. Likewise wires hanging from connectors… Probably not an issue. Would sure be easier to deal with adding/removing wires…
I did order one of the USB panel mount extension cables. The mini-usb side has a right angle connection which may be an issue if I mount hanging down. Also cable length is 1’ which is longer than I need, but…
That is all for now.
Kurt
A quick side note: I also enlarged the holes for the push-buttons slightly. The Radioshack online spec said they fit in a .25" hole, but they did not. Might be able to screw them in. The back of the package said their mounting hole is 17/64"
Kurt
Getting pretty tight in there. Are you ready for another prototype yet?
Yep as you noticed it will be tight. I think it would be great to try a new prototype of it.
Thanks
Kurt
Over the last couple of days, I have tried to install and all of the rest of the components, minus the USB extension… Here is a few pictures…
I decided to mount the Seeeduino Mega with the shield hanging upside down from the cover. I drilled 2 holes and then got some 1" 4-40 screws from hardware store which went all the way through the cover and shield so no way it can come apart. Also since it is such a tight fit in the case as I will need to clean up the wires for it to go in completely, there will be no room for the wires to come lose
Now I need to update the code to know about the 3rd slider, plus use the 4 configuration buttons, to go through configuration pages and the like. But I am making some progress.
Kurt
Ok, I will read over the changes you have documented and make up a new drawing showing the changes. I will post it here for your approval. 
BTW, do you have one of these electronic digital calipers from Harbor Freight?
harborfreight.com/6-inch-dig … 47257.html
They are $20.00 and great to measure things accurately, hint hint.
Precision tools from Harbor Freight? That’s an oxymoron!
Better get a set of Mutsuhito’s from MSC…
Alan KM6VV
Nope, but do have a Gen-Tech one from Marine Hardware (store in town…)
Something like this:
I used it earlier to make guess on sizes…
Kurt
Not much time on this over the last few days…
But wondering about a couple of options.
Where to mount the XBEE. I will probably bury it inside the case. So wondering if I should order a different XBEE with remote antennae. For me, I normally only operate in my own office so it does not need more than maybe 20’ so probably OK with chip antennae, but for my GP maybe I should…
If I bury the XBEE I can not see the LEDS on the XBEE (connect, RX, TX), which is sometimes useful to see, Wondering if I should mount some small LEDS in the face plate for these? Not sure what is the best way to mount LEDS in the faceplate.
Also thinking of mounting a remote processor reset button. May not need to once the code is working OK. Normally can simply switch on and off, but with USB power you have to instead unplug USB cable, which causes IDE terminal to get confussed…
That is all for now.
Kurt
You could have a transparent faceplate like mine…?
Or, if not a fully transparent faceplate, perhaps a window. You can make all sorts of windows out of CD jewel cases. You can even buy them in transparent colors. Leftovers are cheaper than sheet styrene.
Thanks guys, those are interesting ideas. but I also wonder about, which ideas are easier for the mechanically challenged person like myself. One of the above, or drilling a couple of holes, and mounting a couple LEDS, which I need to probably solder in some inline 1K resistors and connect them to the the XBEE board probably with something like 1K resistors? Also could attempt to connect to IO pins and display something on the OLED… Easiest is of-course to simply punt
Kurt
Isn’t a mechanically challenged **Robot Guru **a contradiction in terms? Or as the US Army would say, “That’s an oxen, moron.” 
Have you considered using hobby fiber optics to bring the board LEDs out to the faceplate? Here is one source of such material: Hobby Fiber Optic Filament
Cool…!
Looks like fun. Could be an interesting challenge, that might be fun to try. Not sure how to attach the filaments, maybe drill same size and glue?
Kurt
Look like the way to do it. but… it’s the other end that is more complicated to me… xBee side
I would try a small bit of hot glue. If you’re careful you can position it in the melted glue while looking at the end to ensure it’s positioned correctly. Zoomkat would be proud.
