Thanks Xan!
I’m using the bandsaw, XYZ milling machine and other machines we have at work. So I don’t have them at home 
. I’m trying to convinse my boss that we also need a CNC machine, but no luck so far 
We actually have a 3D printer now… but they won’t let me play with it. 
WOW! I’ve only seen those on vids…
I wish we had a milling machine. the only thing we’ve got at work are pc’s, pc’s and even more pc’s… But they are fast though
It feeds material from two spools up to a heated head on x-y-z rails. one material is the ABS or whatever it is building the shape from and the other material is a support plastic that disolves in a heated ultrasoinc cleaning tub after the build is complete. I don’t think the model we have has as high a resolution as some of the liquid in a tub types (only 0.01" I believe) but it’s reasonably fast and not too messy even.
Hi Zenta!
Your project is off to a very good start nice work over all.
I have a few questions for you…
Have you given in thought on how you are going to solve your large power needs either though li-poly battery packs or some other battery chemistry?
Also are you adding wireless 2.4 GHz video to the “head” so you can see cans though it?
docdoc
Thanks!
I’m going to use LiPo for powering and two Turnigy UBEC switch regulators. I posted the battery in another thread. I’m gonna use this:
Closeup pictures of the regulator:
I’ve been thinking of it but I’ve no experience with the CMUCAM’s or Blackfin. Do you have any suggestions?
Would be cool try one time!
heya Zenta…
Sorry I too have no experience with the CMUCAM or Blackfin…
I’ve heard the CMUCAM will shut down if exposed to direct sunlight though so if you are going to get into that I would suggest a filter for that situation.
Also you could always use a wireless camera attacted to the head to send data back to a main computer and use a very easy yet powerful program Roborealm
then the computer could send data back to a SSC-32 (via bluetooth or wireless 2.4 also) which they have got programed into roborealm.
This would allow you to find-> approach-> and grab certain color cans. From there its really up to you what happens.
Nice tutorials on it -> roborealm.com/tutorials.php
I thought you were originally going to RC control it then it would be a simple matter of hooking up a small LCD with the receiver for a 2.4 GHz camera.
docdoc
Please… stop showing off that massive Lipo of yours! I can’t take it anymore! 
Hi docdoc,
Thanks for information, I was aware of the roborealm but I’ve no experience about that either. I was hoping to have a solution without the need for a PC. But it would be fun to add a wireless camera. And the roborealm looks very interesting. I’ve seen some cool stuff other people have done with roborealm ex. ball tracking.
Another point of view:
[size=200]LOL[/size]
Hi,
I’ve done some progress lately with my A-pod. I’ve made a battery holder for the LiPo battery:
I’m using some cheap servo horns as a clamp for holding the battery in place.
Pics of the battery inside the holder:
There are still plenty of space for mounting an extra battery on top, I just have to replace the spacers with some that are longer. 10200 mAh would rock! LOL But I think one is more than enough, I don’t want to add more weight. Maybe if I one day choose to replace the femur and tiba servos with some 5990’s, then I think two batteries would do the job.
And here are some pics of the head section, nothing new but easier to see how the SES brackets are mounted:
A closeup of the custom head mounting block:
I’ve also worked with the abdomen (tail section). Here is a picture of the main abdomen frame. You can see the hole for mounting the electronics:
Just a closeup of the ballbearing joint at the other side:
And finaly the abdomen frame together with the upper and lower abdomen cover:
That’s it for today. I’ll post more info when I’ve done more.
wow. once again you have impressed me!
the idea for the custom head mounting block is well thought out but simple. very nice!!
again simple… you make everything look like its just come out off of a production line. the quality is at a very high standard!
i dont think iv seen anything look so neat and tidy.
is there much strain on the 645’s shaft, you have used for the head mounting block?
i know the "C bracket will take most of this but does the servo stress?
great! 8)
*couldnt help adding that big lipo could you!!! *:lol:
Maybe a little off topic, but what type of camera are you using to take the close up photos?
Thanks for your nice comments innerbreed!
I’ve not seen any stress so far. So think this construction will hold, as you mention the C-bracket helps alot!
No I couldn’t…
Amazing work! I love the abdomen! The final picture really shows how the end result is gone look like.
Are you still planning to place the electronics in the abdomen? I have no idea how big it is and if it will fit in.
Great work with the 3DOF for the head. Very claver to place the servos in that order. By having the axial rotating servo stinking totally inside the body. This way you’ll have full freedom without having it look like a giraffe. 8)
Silly lipo
Xan
Hi Xan,
Thanks for your comment!
Yes I’m planning to have all electronics inside the abdomen. I’m gonna use some sort of bolts inside aligned with the mounting holes for the electronics, I’ve not figured it all out yet . And the halves wont be together but with some space apart like the body plates, to make more space and for keeping the same design style.
Hi,
I’ve done some progress lately on my A-pod. All wiring are completed and the tail section are connected with all electronics too. I’ve just started with calibration and some testing. I’m sorry for not having any pictures yet, but I’ll post some when I’m done with calibration.
I also did some payload testing with the head with a 0,5 liter beer can (about 0,5 kg I think). At first it seemed to manage it very well. But at the end one of the cheap retract servos burned out (their small motors didn’t handle the load, they dosen’t seem to have the torque they are rated for or my mandible construction isn’t good enough. I’m thinking of trying some Hitec low-profile servos. They have to be MG and strong, atleast 5 - 6 kg/cm torque.
Does some of you have any experience with these?
At first I don’t want to change the head design (how the mandibles are activated), so I want to try some better servos first.
Any comments are appreciated!
i understand the issue you are having.
i also wouldnt change the design for this part but maybe (off the top of my head) you could still use these servos to “activate” the mandibles and have some sort of “locking grip” system implimented into the “jaw” so that it takes the stress from the servos?