MicroHexTT

Posted on 17/11/2015 by duhjoker
Modified on: 13/09/2018
Project
Press to mark as completed
Introduction
This is an automatic import from our previous community platform. Some things can look imperfect.

If you are the original author, please access your User Control Panel and update it.

This is my hexapod robot. I call it the MicroHexTT. I dont have much space so i wanted to build a bot around the same size as an msrubug. The bot in whole is a hodge podge of parts from three or four different bots. I switched around alot till i found the right combinations of parts and measurements. Im using MG90 digital servos as the muscle. Two batteries for power, a 7.4v 1000mah lipo for logic power and an 11.1v 500mah lipo connected to a Pololu 5v 9a power regulator. The brains ...


MicroHexTT

This is my hexapod robot. I call it the MicroHexTT.

I dont have much space so i wanted to build a bot around the same size as an msrubug. The bot in whole is a hodge podge of parts from three or four different bots. I switched around alot till i found the right combinations of parts and measurements.

Im using MG90 digital servos as the muscle. Two batteries for power, a 7.4v 1000mah lipo for logic power and an 11.1v 500mah lipo connected to a Pololu 5v 9a power regulator.

The brains are from Lynxmotion. Im using an SSC-32U servo controller with a BotBoarduino MCU and connected to a Lynxmotion V1 PS2 RX/TX pair. Its worth noting to anyone planning on buying the V1 is that you do not need the level shifter to wire the PS2 RX to the BotBoarduino. Wire it straight to the board but use the 3.3v out on the bottom left side female head to power it.

I started having a few different chassis' printed out after downloading the STL files from a 3D print site. Once i could see what what i wanted or needed i then redesigned and/or modified each part to make it work. Went through serveral different incarnations before finding something i was happy with.

For hardware i dug into my local hardware store for nuts bolts and washers.

The coxas were designed to work on a top and bottom pivot off the chassis plates. The top body plate has star holes for gripping the servo head but just a tad tighter. You have to squeeze the servo head in then tighten it using a screw and a small washer to help keep it tighter. This reduces some of the space used by servo horns. The coxas to the bottom plate are free moving. I didnt have bearings so i used a system of greased washers to act in that way then applied a nut to cap it with a lil locktite.

The femurs bolt on to the coxa and tibia servos the same way the top does.

I experimented with several different kinds of servo in this size before settling on the MG90s. Plastic headed servos strip when trying to use the star holes, but metal geared heads are perfect.

I was pleasantly surprised that i coukd make the bot work using the Phoenix code with out changing any of the IK measurements in the hardware config file, but i do plan on entering my own IK numbers so hopefully it wont walk so sloppy.

Its not complete as of yet. I need to do some cosmetics and to change some parts out.

LikedLike this to see more

Spread the word

Flag this post

Thanks for helping to keep our community civil!


Notify staff privately
It's Spam
This post is an advertisement, or vandalism. It is not useful or relevant to the current topic.

You flagged this as spam. Undo flag.Flag Post