Thanks for your help 
the battery that i am considering is in fact labeled as 12 Ah, see link
zbattery.com/CSB-6V-12Ah-SLA … egory=3030
since i am an artist per trade and not much proficient in electronics , i do appreciate your input. There is always time to learn.
i will post some of my progress soon on the projects page of the forum
Thanks
Be a little careful with this. Sealed lead acid batteries have a nominal voltage of roughly 2V/cell (making a 6V SLA battery a 3-cell device) but they charge to more than that. Case in point a 12V car battery typically operates between 13.8 and 14.6 volts. Depending on the servos you choose you may want to use zoomkat’s infamous put a power diode in series with the output approach to drop the voltage a little. 
Makes sense
could you elaborate a bit more on which diode to choose 
If you wanted to use a 12v battery, you could use a 7805T voltage regulator for each servo and up the output voltage to 5.8v to get good servo performance. They are ~$.35 each from jameco.
how bout this little gizmo, ?
lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx? … egoryID=48
so, the 7805T voltage regulator would go in between SSC 32 and servo?
The 6v vltage regulator would work, but the max input voltage is 8.4v. The 7805T voltage regulator would go in between the battery and servo.
Um, the first time he torque loads up an HS-645 with a 7805T regulating it’s supply current it’s gonna shut down… they are only 1.5A regualtors at best and they have about a 3V drop out at 1.5A.
If you were to put a diode such as the On Semi MUR1510G in series with each VS1 and VS2 input, that is two diodes with the kathode of each to the positive pin of the VS# input and the anodes of the diodes tied together and to the positive terminal of the battery (or most likely a switch connected to the positive terminal of the battery) then you would drop most of a volt and even if the 6V SLA battery were charged to 7.3V you would still be ok. You WILL need to heatsink the diodes though… consider if you are averaging 4 or 5A through each (this is assuming 13 servos each side running 0.3A to 0.4A idle) and dropping roughly a volt they will be dissipating 4 or 5 WATTS EACH just doing nothing. So you’ll need to have them bolted to something and possibly a small fan blowing some air at them.
May not work under all conditions, but something cheap to try before spending $$$. They will get hot at stall conditions, but don’t seem worse for the wear.
Getting hot won’t hurt the regulators at all because they are designed to shut down… it is what they do. Hopefully if he tries this it is on a couple of servos only.
The load the servos will have to carry will depend on the gizmo design (maybe cheaper to smoke a regulator than a servo). As to using diodes, I’d use ones similar to below on the power to individual high load servos instead of just using them on a common power supply to all servos. He probably needs to setup the highest load servo and do some testing to see what the current needs will be.
Thanks
i think i need a heatsink for myself 
I will try the On Semi MUR1510G wired in series
How is this problem solved in bigger applications ???
using a 4 or 5 cell NiMH pack or using an active voltage regulator like a BEC used in r/c models to power the receiver and servos from a high voltage battery pack. I think zenta had some decent ones in one of his projects… search for “Turnigy” (I think was the manufacturer) or UBEC in the forum.
[size=75]Edited: to correct the spelling of turnigy and UBEC[/size]
will this supply the 10- 12 Amps that i need?
You would most likely need two, much like the series diodes, and feed each of the VS# inputs seperately from a common battery pack. There is the disadvantage of cost, they are around $21USD each, however they allow you to use a higher input voltage like a 12V SLA battery or NiMH pack which are pretty common hobby-shop items if you want to souce locally to save shipping (since batteries are usually heavy). One nice advantage is they don’t generate large amounts of heat so they are a lot more efficient than a diode or voltage regulator (at considerably more cost.)
Here is an example of the type of device I am talking about, but there are other capable ones out there as well.
sounds like a plan
am i correct that i would disregard the orange/ brown wire on this an just use positive and negative to feed into VS1 and possible a second set up for VS2
yes, and make certain to remove the VS1=VS2 jumpers as well so you don’t short the outputs of the BECs together on the PCB.
oh, don’t destroy the ability to make a connection with the signal wire. Some BECs are programmable, the castle creations one I linked are for certain, and you would need that wire to re-program the output voltage or set a LiPO voltage threshold.
sweet
i am looking at a competitors BEC , see link
hobbycity.com/hobbycity/stor … oduct=6233
this one seems to be a bit cheaper (and higher Max Amp) and i would not have to program it to my specs
Thanks for all your help
I think that is the one zenta used on his quad. It has a lower input voltage range than the CC-BEC so it may not work on a 12V SLA. Should work fine with up to 8 NiMH cells (9.6V pack) or on 2S or 3S LiPO pack though.
GL.
Thanks for all your help
i will be powering the project with a 6 volt 12 Ah slh battery, this should work , at least on paper
i think it is time to go shopping and assemble the power plant
soon i will start posting some results of my build in the projects forum
