Thanks
i think i get the idea 
i found in a different thread that the SSC-32 can Handle up to 15 A per side .
is this correct?
so, my idea is to get 2X 6 volt 12 A Lead Acid Batteries , one for each side, to have enough current to power all of the servos.
My design calls for the servos to move at the same time in order to get a fluid motion for my creature. but since it is stationary weight is not an issue at this point.
am i heading in the right direction?
Thanks for all the help
Yes. Yes. The only thing you can do wrong at this point is to use little bitty wires to connect the batteries to the controller. 
You are on the right track.
Just checking⊠most lead-acid batteries are rated by voltage and capacity. Two common 6v lead acid battery sizes are 1.2Ah & 12Ah. Just checking that itâs clear â12Aâ probably doesnât refer to the amount of current the battery can source. I think most lead-acid batteries can source much higher currents (and so from a current needs standpoint, one battery might be sufficient.)
Thanks for your help 
the battery that i am considering is in fact labeled as 12 Ah, see link
zbattery.com/CSB-6V-12Ah-SLA ⊠egory=3030
since i am an artist per trade and not much proficient in electronics , i do appreciate your input. There is always time to learn.
i will post some of my progress soon on the projects page of the forum
Thanks
Be a little careful with this. Sealed lead acid batteries have a nominal voltage of roughly 2V/cell (making a 6V SLA battery a 3-cell device) but they charge to more than that. Case in point a 12V car battery typically operates between 13.8 and 14.6 volts. Depending on the servos you choose you may want to use zoomkatâs infamous put a power diode in series with the output approach to drop the voltage a little.
Makes sense
could you elaborate a bit more on which diode to choose 
If you wanted to use a 12v battery, you could use a 7805T voltage regulator for each servo and up the output voltage to 5.8v to get good servo performance. They are ~$.35 each from jameco.
how bout this little gizmo, ?
lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx? ⊠egoryID=48
so, the 7805T voltage regulator would go in between SSC 32 and servo?
The 6v vltage regulator would work, but the max input voltage is 8.4v. The 7805T voltage regulator would go in between the battery and servo.
Um, the first time he torque loads up an HS-645 with a 7805T regulating itâs supply current itâs gonna shut down⊠they are only 1.5A regualtors at best and they have about a 3V drop out at 1.5A.
If you were to put a diode such as the On Semi MUR1510G in series with each VS1 and VS2 input, that is two diodes with the kathode of each to the positive pin of the VS# input and the anodes of the diodes tied together and to the positive terminal of the battery (or most likely a switch connected to the positive terminal of the battery) then you would drop most of a volt and even if the 6V SLA battery were charged to 7.3V you would still be ok. You WILL need to heatsink the diodes though⊠consider if you are averaging 4 or 5A through each (this is assuming 13 servos each side running 0.3A to 0.4A idle) and dropping roughly a volt they will be dissipating 4 or 5 WATTS EACH just doing nothing. So youâll need to have them bolted to something and possibly a small fan blowing some air at them.
May not work under all conditions, but something cheap to try before spending $$$. They will get hot at stall conditions, but donât seem worse for the wear.
Getting hot wonât hurt the regulators at all because they are designed to shut down⊠it is what they do. Hopefully if he tries this it is on a couple of servos only.
The load the servos will have to carry will depend on the gizmo design (maybe cheaper to smoke a regulator than a servo). As to using diodes, Iâd use ones similar to below on the power to individual high load servos instead of just using them on a common power supply to all servos. He probably needs to setup the highest load servo and do some testing to see what the current needs will be.
Thanks
i think i need a heatsink for myself 
I will try the On Semi MUR1510G wired in series
How is this problem solved in bigger applications ???
using a 4 or 5 cell NiMH pack or using an active voltage regulator like a BEC used in r/c models to power the receiver and servos from a high voltage battery pack. I think zenta had some decent ones in one of his projects⊠search for âTurnigyâ (I think was the manufacturer) or UBEC in the forum.
[size=75]Edited: to correct the spelling of turnigy and UBEC[/size]
will this supply the 10- 12 Amps that i need?
You would most likely need two, much like the series diodes, and feed each of the VS# inputs seperately from a common battery pack. There is the disadvantage of cost, they are around $21USD each, however they allow you to use a higher input voltage like a 12V SLA battery or NiMH pack which are pretty common hobby-shop items if you want to souce locally to save shipping (since batteries are usually heavy). One nice advantage is they donât generate large amounts of heat so they are a lot more efficient than a diode or voltage regulator (at considerably more cost.)
Here is an example of the type of device I am talking about, but there are other capable ones out there as well.
sounds like a plan
am i correct that i would disregard the orange/ brown wire on this an just use positive and negative to feed into VS1 and possible a second set up for VS2
yes, and make certain to remove the VS1=VS2 jumpers as well so you donât short the outputs of the BECs together on the PCB.
oh, donât destroy the ability to make a connection with the signal wire. Some BECs are programmable, the castle creations one I linked are for certain, and you would need that wire to re-program the output voltage or set a LiPO voltage threshold.
