I think it may be possible to do that.
Would need to keep my design with only one side open.
I don’t think it would cost less or more since i was planing to drill the hole on the top (to pass the screw) myself in a press drill.
As far as weight. The thing is very small. Last version use 25mm height by 0.25in.
I don’t know what is your price range.
Do you have a simple RC (Heli or Plane) 4 chanel transmitter ?
It is not that your helicopter designs are expensive. It is that all my other hobbies (garden railroading, astronomy, barbershop singing, robotics, computers, photography, videography, et al) are expensive. So this new fascination you present me will have to get on line competing for my funds. However, multi-rotor helicopters appear to be edging their way toward the front of the line.
I do not yet have such an aviation RC transmitter. I do have an old VEX (robotics) transmitter somewhere which may be temporarily usable for learning to fly, if I can find it.
Your new clamp design, a la Marcham, looks quite elegant and much simpler to manufacture. My earlier suggestion about reversing some split-edged clamps and eliminating screws was offered only as a way of using any split clamps you might already have produced. Your new idea seems much more practical.
Your new clamp design, a la Marcham is truly a great way to do it, just, I suspect, considerably heaver then you’d like. I definitely like the looks of this design, but you might consider just a slight flat on the the rods, and then tie-wrapping them in place? Not as elegant looking, to be sure, but I’d bet considerably lighter! Just a thought.
So what do you currently have that flys? There have been many projects designed in the past that look great, but the practical laws of physics turned them into static models. Your design shows thick materials and heavy fastners that would work for something on the ground, but not good design for something that is expected to fly. Just a reality check.
The guy who cut it for me use 0.094in G10 material.
He said that his thiner g10 plate are uneven in thickness. That’s why we use that one.
Would like to try something esle… (Like carbon fiber 1.5mm)
It does take a full 12 x 24 sheet for a complete frame
I have use Aluminum standoff to attach the top and botom plate (Real light weight)
Also use 4-40 lynxmotion screw that come in 100pc bag…
I am assembling the Y4 setup today.
I have changed the Propeller since that video. Bigger that better suited to that motor.
8min at first and now 13min and more power… LOL
Oh… and btw i have change the version 2 time since that video… LOL
Now on V1.7:
Motors can be mount inside the frame and only prop is outside.
Changed the layout 45deg on the center plate to have the battery in the right angle.
Lighter frame (Cutout in the frame everywhere changed)
Nylon and even aluminum 4-40 hardware are much lighter than steel. Anything that flies deserves the lightest construction materials and weight reduction design that still has the required strength. This puts the minimum load on the motors and provides the longest flight times. The design is certainly done with weight savings in mind BTW, and it’s beautiful.