PS2 Remote Issue/Questions

Hi all,

 I bought a T-Hex kit from RoboShop; everything is great except the ability to connect the RB-All-25 controller shipped with the product.

 Being familiar with wiring, I know the jumpers and wiring are correct as per the diagrams here: [lynxmotion.com/images/html/build171.htm](http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build171.htm)

 Not having experience with Lynxmotion/Robot Shop products, I need help.  I have yet to see my specific problem and resolution posted.

 This is what I know:

]I have not seen any tethered controller fail. They all work (tried several)./:m]
]A Pegasus Brand (GameStop Generic) PS2 Controller/Receiver works (although the control codes seem to be off so it is more if a drunken or wounded swagger at best) - But connectivity is solid./:m]
*]The RB-All-25 Remote connects properly on 9-volt alkaline power.

]/:m]] The ā€œstartā€ and ā€œstopā€ sounds are appropriate./:m]
]/:m]] No ā€œerrorā€ sounds exist./:m]
]/:m]] There is not enough actual power to operate the servos./:m]
]/:m]] The connectivity between receiver/controller ā€œactā€ normal (as far as lights/color)/:m]/*:m]
] All act the same with only boards, power, and controller combo attached, and components removed from bot frame./:m]
] All testing is done with fresh working batteries./:m]

Here is the issue (or the beginning of the failure):
[INDENT]When I power on the 6v battery, the receiver/controller lose connectivity and never regain it on the RB-All-25. There are no ā€œerrorā€ sounds from the speaker, just broken connectivity.[/INDENT]

Here is my logic:

]If the jumpers were wrong, the flow would be incorrect, and there would be no connectivity (VS versus 5v)/:m]
]If cable wiring was off, the receiver cable would not function properly with the tethered controllers./:m]
]The servo wiring is downstream of the power so its ability to be incorrect is irrelevant. (Also physical removal has no effect.)/:m]
]If the power wiring were off, the regulation voltage would be off, but it all is well with a tethered controller./:m]

This leaves me with either the control boards, the atom pro chip, or the RB-All-25 receiver:
[INDENT]If the SSC-32 or Bot Board II were failing, or even a flaw in the Atom, then how does it work flawlessly with the tethered controller?
If the receiver was failing, how does it work initially, but fail when the main battery power is applied?[/INDENT]

An oddity to note:
[INDENT]I tested the pinning of the Lynxmotion PS2C-01 Sony Playstation Controller Cable (RB-Lyn-166).
It matches the diagram wiring, but not the color.
The odd part is that the 5v and ground are separate on the receiver end, but are combined (via a white cable) to the board end.
This is odd because it is not specific in the many diagrams.
The separation of the white cross cable has no effect.[/INDENT]

So now that the history lesson is noted, here are a few questions:
[INDENT]Has there been a resolution to this before?
Is the RB-All-25 combo known to be working and effective with the T-Hex kit?
Is board failure a viable option, or is it still possible?[/INDENT]

Thanks in advance!:smiley:

The 9v alkaline battery is labeled as ā€œLogic Bat. 9.0vdcā€ on lynxmotion.com/images/html/build171.htm.

So far so good!

The new controller solves previous issues, and it has the level shifter incorporated.

Thank you Very Much! :smiley:

This seems to be an issue - although it might seem basic, check that all batteries are properly charged.

The controller should take 4xAAA batteries - where does the 9V come in?

Power the robot via the 9V battery and the 6V battery pack. Turn the switchs On. THEN power the remote and press ā€œstartā€. See if this helps.

Lynxmotion previously used a branded version of the remote from a different supplier. We placed the two remotes side by side, and in order to work, their connections must be the same. The only possible difference is the logic level; the ā€œoldā€ V1 Lynxmotion remotes operated at 3.3V, but were powered at 5V - it worked well but with some glitches. The V2 came out which did not work well at all and therefore a fix was required - the level shifter.

We have not had any issues so far, but it’s always an option.

Try to follow the procedure outline above, double-check the connections.
Unfortunately we physically do not have an RB-All-25 to test on our end.
If you still cannot get it to work properly, we’ll look into replacing it with the V2.

We await your reply.

No - RB-Lyn-578 would be the correct replacement. I’m leaning towards the controller you have being defective. It would be preferable to cancel that order and order RB-Lyn-578. If it works, we’ll certainly cover shipping back to us for the RB-All-25. If you were able to wait a little, we’d also have sent the replacement to you so you don’t need to pay shipping.

Honestly don’t know, but not likely. The only think that comes to mind is the logic working at 3.3V rather than 5V, which was the reason for the changeover.

That should solve it and save significant troubleshooting. Be sure to have one or two extra 3-pin servo cables.