Can you post a schematic of your setup with only one battery? It almost sounds like you are connecting your motors in series with each other.
I think you can use one battery, but you need to provide separate ground and power connections to each motor and transistor, so that those circuits don’t interfere with each other. Like this:
I wanna know sure is it’s something with the receiver (thats works maybe different then we all think) or if it’s something with the transistors…
try this: Disconnect the whole receiver, so only the 4 wires are left over. then connect one of the bases (WITH the 1K resistor between!!) to the + of the battery. what happens? are they still both turning?
That’s a good troubleshooting approach. Make sure when you disconnect the receiver that you leave the pulldown resistors in place so the disconnected wires don’t float high.
Using the schematic that shows both motors connected 1 battery, disconnecting the receiver, leaving the 10K resistors from the base to ground. I connected the + from the base through the 1K resistor, and only one motor ran.
Then connecting the + from the base through the other 1K resistor, the other motor ran. They both did not run in either case.
This is progress. It sounds like the transistors are working fine. It is something with your receiver itself, or with the wiring to your receiver.
Double-check your connections with a multimeter. See if there is a short between your receiver outputs while it is disconnected from the transistors. If you find no short, re-connect it and check for a short between the receiver outputs again.
Also try disconnecting your receiver and testing the outputs while you send commands from your transmitter. Verify that receiver output 2 is inactive when you are only commanding output 1 to turn on, and vice-versa.
Here are the readings I am getting from my meter with the 4 wires disconnected from the receiver to the circuit.
From the receiver there is a battery connection, and additionally two red wires, a yellow wire and a blue wire.
I connected the battery, thenI attached my meter from 1 red wire to the yellow wire, when I turned the left control stick on the transmitter (that would run both motors), the voltage would be around 5.16V. Then turning the right control stick on the transmitter (that would run one motor), in one direction, the voltage reading was 5.06V, then turning the right control stick on the transmitter the opposite direction, the voltage was 0.
Then I attached the same red wire to the blue wire, and followed exactly the same procedure. The left control stick (for both motors) was the same around 5.16V. However when turning the right control stick on the transmitter (that would run one motor), I got just the opposite results as I did before, as anticipated.
Then, using the other red wire, I followed the same procedure and got the same results.
Sorry, maybe I’m a bit slow this morning. I’m having trouble understanding your description.
Maybe a picture of your actual receiver and transmitter would help. Or model numbers so we can look them up.
My limited experience with RC receivers is that each channel has a three pin connection (power, ground, signal), typically used for running a servo. There’s sometimes a separate three pin connector that lets you connect power and ground input for the receiver, but I’ve also seen some where you use one of the servo connectors to provide power and ground for the receiver itself too.
Your drawing is very different from the above. It would help to understand what your equipment is.
I almost think the red wires are constant +, could you check this?
If so…it explains all: The motors then are controlled by switching the negative wire. This explains why they both run when connecting to 1 battery. In that case you should need PNP transistors instead of the NPN you’re using now with a slightly different circuit.
What I have is called a yellow bee RC airplane, they are sold though Harbor Freight.
They are a cheapie.
It uses an airplane transmitter with a control stick on the left that moves up and down. The movement up does nothing but when you move the stick toward you (down) then both small motors run.
On the right of the transmitter a control stick moves to the right and left. Moving the stick to the right, will operate the right motor. Moving the stick to the left, will operate the left motor.
When I dismantled the receiver and motors, from the airplane, the receiver has two wires going to each motor. A red wire, and a blue wire to one motor, and a red wire and a yellow wire to the other motor. It has a 6V battery pack (using 4 recharageable AA batteries in a shrink wrap, I would guess) to power the receiver and the 2 small motors.
It was using a servo motor amp board. Since this airplane receiver did not have a servo motor amp board, I just tried to modify it to work for my larger motors and using 12V.
Finally, I discovered that by using the schematic that I posted originally, I could get it to operate either motor independently, or both at the same time if I used 2 power sources. Thus coming up with the schematic. This circuit does work, but I am simply trying to eliminate one battery if possible.
OK, so it sounds like Dannyv is correct, and the red wires are just 5V power and are on all the time. So the yellow and blue wires are your signal that you need your circuit to respond to.
Measuring from the receiver ground for all measurements, can you tell us the voltage on:
yellow wire when the receiver is off
yellow wire with the receiver on and the control in neutral position
yellow wire with the receiver on and the control in the “on” position
blue wire when the receiver is off
blue wire with the receiver on and the control in neutral position
blue wire with the receiver on and the control in the “on” position
Assuming the yellow and blue are your signal outputs for channel 1 and channel two, if they are active high, you should see them at about 5V when you command them “on”, If they are active low, you should seem them at about 0V when you command them on.
Assuming they are active high, your circuit will work when you make the following connection changes:
Disconnect both red wires. You don’t need them
Disconnect the yellow wire from the emitter and 12v battery ground; connect it to the input of the base resistor.
Disconnect the blue wire from the emitter and 12v battery ground; connect it to the input of the base resistor.
If your signal wires are actually active low, you will need to replace your transistors with PNP style components.