I appreciate the feedback. I also am not terribly excited about the look of the single pane leg part. Itâs a 0.09" thick part which should be stronger than the same part made from 0.18" polycarbonate. (I have found that aluminum is stronger than an equivalent polycarbonate part that is double the thickness.) Iâm not done experimenting with this yet. The goal is to make it all aluminum / injection molded, and look better too. The SES does need a good 2DOF mechanical advantage leg as well.
I have noticed this as well when I tried getting stuff in blue or yellow. So, I guess the basic robot color is going to be black except where I can inject a bit of color into it. Black does look a bit more dangerousâŠ
While not necessarily revolutionary I have been experimenting with the tibia on this prototype 2DOF hexapod. There is a spring that allows the tip if the tibia to float while the hex is walking. The middle leg takes the brunt of the floating when the hex is walking forward, but the fore and aft tibias do more floating when the hex is turning in place.
The tibia needs to be made from aluminum, and I need to decide if the femur will be two plates or just the one. Trying to keep the costs down.
The chassis is now aluminumâŠ
Here is an image of the bot.
Here is a closeup of the leg.
Here is the chassis with the optional side panels.
I used to have the original hexapod 1, quadrapod, and hexapod 2 PE⊠but those got stolen a few years back along with a bunch of my stuff! Coulda been collector editions! Iâll miss the yellow plastic look, but overall I think the aluminum designs are much more practical.
Whatâs that? Let me turn up the volume a littleâŠ
Yeah, thatâs a foot alright! A little compliance in a leg wouldnât hurt. Pad size is about right for a pressure or capacitive sensor as well.
I donât quite see the function of the linkage on the new 2DOF 'bot (other then transfer of motion). Is it to provide some sort of âsoftâ linkage to the servo? The âCrust Critterâ or some such 'bot was complaining about that, I think I read.
OK ready to copy. Iâm just wondering whether or not to take time to check out the touch sensor chips I found. Iâll need to make up a little PCB with a PIC and the QT1081 8-KEY QTouch Sensor IC. Also need to have your I2C interface working! ;>)
It actually looks like a minimal mod to my aluminum tibia to incorporate this touch sensor. It could probably work with ANY of the tibia designs, as an after-sale mod.
I think Iâm going to need a couple of Schmart boards (both QT and PIC are SMT). Iâve got a circuit design and the firmware already in mind.