The last are is a little messy, so I tried to show you a picture of the connections themselves.
Youāll notice two pair of the thin gauge power wires. They connect to the 9v Battry clip, and to the VLogic input of the BBII.
The thicker wires connect to the switch, which connects to the main supply.
I am of the understanding that the 9v battery is just to supply the logic. As of the moment, Iāve just been powering the board with main battery, even during programming. Iāve tried it with all power sources connected with no difference.
I understand that the chip looks like itās unseated, but I think it just has very long pins. Pin28 looks a little off especially, but itās as firmly seated as the rest. Iāve pulled it out with a gripper and re-seated it twice, and this is the lowest it can get. Iāve pressed down between a bottom mat with a rubber press on top and I canāt get it to seat any further. Anything else and Iām worried about damaging components.
I hope this information helps. Thanks again!
Edit: I just wanted to say that the wireless reciever seems to be seated correctly into the base which is installed to the BBII. I read other posts where people say it was installed upside down, but Iām not sure as how thatās possible without really forcing it. Kind of a square into round hole type of thing. Unless, Iāve got this mistaken for some other mistake, i just thought it would be good to note.
I think I see a pin on the left side (a few in) that is in too far towards the center of the socket. Any pins bent/wrinkled?
If you send something back, maybe send the BBII also, so that the chip can be properly seated.
I like to try a slight ārockingā motion, which with a little pressure will generally work the pins further in. However, the pins need to be straight; and properly aligned with the socket.
Yeah, looking at the picture makes it seem worse than how it looks.
If I need to ship this back with the controller, whatās the expected process/turn around?
The pin that looks too far in is slightly bent, and that was the best I could make it seat. Even the back side of the chip doesnāt want to seat any more than it has.
If the chip needs replacing, thatās not really an issue. Just let me know what to do.
Also, I hooked up a corded PS2 controller and the robot would stand, seem like it tried to move, then fall. I thought maybe the controller was too much an added drain to the battery.
Other than that, just let me know what to do and I can try to get it overnighted to you hopefully by tomorrow.
2a) If it does not work, what is the outputs shown on the screen. Is it valid data or all 0ās or 255s? If it is valid data, and still blinking, it says that receiver is at least working well enough to talk to the BAP, if it is all 0ās or 255s, than it is not talking.
2b) If it is not talking correctly, than need to double check things like:
a) Is the PS2 correctly installed into the PS2 cable. I think it is hard to do, but is it plugged in upside downā¦
b) Check how the wires are plugged into the BB2. On most of the cables, I believe that there is a brown wire on one side of a 4 pin connector. Is that plugged into the P12 on the BB2? Also is plugged into the IO pin (the ones closest to the center of the board). Is the power and ground pins connect properly. Is the power pins for that group of IO pins configured for +5v and not VS.
c) Sometimes it helps to remove the 3 jumpers/shunts above the speaker that connect to the three LEDS and buttons.
d) if the PS2 is not talking at all, check to see if the IO pins are workingā¦ Could run a simple program like:
i var byte
Main:
for i = 12 to 15
toggle i
pause 100
next
goto main
Warning this code was typed in on the fly so could have bugsā¦
If in this step you have the 3 jumpers installed that I mentioned in c) the three LEDs should go on and then offā¦ This will show that you can talk to P12-P14. Wonāt show P15. However if you have a Servo extension wire or other like jumpers you can remove these jumpers, and use the extension cable, by plugging it into 3 pins, like P13-P15 and plug the other end into the upper row on pins where you removed the shunts from(nearest the buttons). With the above code and if you did P13-P15 with the cable, you should be able to verify now if P15 works as wellā¦ Note: several of us use this trick of bumpering some IO pins to these pins to help debug code (or hardware).
There are probably lots of other tests you can do, but these should help to localize what to do next.
I appreciate the response and all the help you all have provided.
Iām going to be working on my robot this saturday, and Iām going to try all the things you have said.
Iām hesitant about the atom chip. Pin 28 is supposed to be Vin. If Pin28 wasnāt connected to the board via the seat, then would I even be able to program it? Basic Atom software says that it connects and that that the programming was complete.
Should I still have problems then Iām of the determination that it will likely be the chip. That being said, I do not think I can seat the atom chip without breaking pin 28, so Iām pondering soldering it directly to the board. Thatāll be hard to do without overheating it, so I donāt usually like to soldier ICās directly.
Last case scenario there. After that I guess the only thing i can do is send the entirety of the robot back to you to have a look. At that time Iāll pay for an additional ATOM chip/BBII so you know that everything is functional and seated properly.
I do appreciate all the help. Iāll keep you updated.
Before I start with my programming trials, I wanted to say that I used a DMM to perform a continuity test on the IC. I tested from each pin to itās associated socket on the bottom side of the board. Everything checked OK.
So I followed the direcitions which the link provided. I wrote the code to the card, and programmed it declaring it as a BBII and version 8.0.1.7.
2a) What I saw matches Figure 2-1 in the tutorial. I still had the same status indicators as before; On the reciever a Solid Green (Left LED) and a flashing Red (Right LED). On the controller the left of the two LEDās was a flashing red, and the right most LED was off. I still could not establish a connection. When I moved the analogās or pressed any digital keys I had no response from the program, and my numbers remained the same.
I also tried the program you wrote in 2d, and my BBII LEDās would flash on/off in a sequential order. Looking at the code that seems what itās supposed to do.
From what it seems based on what youāve said and Iāve seen; the PS2 reciever is talking to the robot, but I just cant get the controller to sync with the receiver.
So any ideas from there? Should I mail you the robot and controller? If so whatās that general procedure, and is it listed on your site?
So we now know the processor is working. Note on 2: I would recommend using the most recent versions of Basic Micro Studio(forums.basicmicro.net/). Nathan normally announces new releases in the News section. I often will also post it up on this forum, but I have not mentioned the last two builds as they are NANO specific.
I assume you have tried replacing the batteries in the remote. Also when the program starts up, try turning the power off on the remote and then back on. Try that a couple of times.
I can help you if itās time to get the PS2 tested in house. Please donāt send the entire robot, only the PS2 controller/receiver and Botboard with Atom Pro. Let me know and I will PM you with details.
That is the verson of Basic Micro Studio that Iāve been using. I havenāt edited the base program. The only programs I have tried to use are the ones generated by PowerPro.
The batteries in the remote are right out of the package. I tried swapping it on and off a few times as well as attempting to toggle the analog setting.
If you could PM me and let me know what to do to send the materials back that would be awesome.
I had to go out of town for the week on business so I gave the robot over to a friend who has been working on it with me. There is the possibility that theyāve mailed you the entire robotā¦ Iām not sure of the address they may have found, but if they found one then it was off of your website most likely.
If you can let me know via PM that would be great. Iāll let you know what we did when I find out myself.
Weāve got your board in for testing. Looks like your VS=VL trace was fried! Granted, this didnāt cause any problems with your setup, but it does make me wonder how that happened. Turns out that there was a bad PS2 receiver in the mix. Weāre going to go ahead and replace that. Hold for Jim for more words regarding this.
We received the Bot Board II/Basic Atom Pro 28 and the PS2 controller and cable. Sorry, you were never going to get it to workā¦ lol The first thing we noticed is the burned trace. Funny thing is it was there in the second image you posted.
Look in the red circle and you can clearly see the burned trace. It was completely open. Do you remember seeing/smelling any smoke? Because you are using the SSC-32 for the servos, you wouldnāt have noticed this problem, but it has been damaged so I replaced it for you. You said you tested the PS2 controller and it worked fine. Our testing showed it would not connect at all. We swapped out the receiver and it is working fine. I will get this stuff returned to you tomorrow. Please send me the return shipping address.
Actually we noticed at the start of our troubleshooting, and I was tempted to try to jumper the trace. However, from all we researched it didnāt seem like it was to cause any problems so we kinda overlooked it. I just left it as it was, but I forgot to mention something on the forums when I posted since I had kinda ruled it out. Specially since I came to the forums as a last attempt to figure it out and get some views from you all.
When I tested the remote initially, it was on an old PS2 game console. It worked and I could navigate the menus, but I didnāt actually get into any games to actually test it other than a few button presses. I also used the programs and tutorials you sent, but only got the results I listed before.
Itās awesome to know that it was the receiver. It makes me curious as to why it worked on the console, but not on the robot, but I appreciate replacing the reciever for me as well as the board.
Iāll send you a PM with my information.
Iāll be sure to keep you up to date on the progress, especially since youāve helped me out so much thus far.
