So I finally got the CH3-R up and running. Overall the bulid process was pretty smooth, but it got hairy towards the end. A few issues to note:
The Basic Atom pcb quality was off - it was too wide, so the only way to get the board to mount was to tweak the pins with a little “Z” to get it to fit. Very nerve-racking, and I went and verified continuity from each pin to the backside of the Bot Board afterwards. It’s still laying at a bit of an angle, so I hope I don’t run into issues with it loosening up later.
The online build instructions still reference the PS2 and TX pin positions for the old Bot Board, not the Bot Board II. This caused me to spend quite a bit of time sorting out which was which - first I had selected the wrong PS2 option in Power Pod, then I had the PS2 on the wrong pins. It finally dawned on me when I looked at the PowerPod code.
When regenerating the PowerPod code for the Bot Board II pin assignments, and loading it into the Basic Atom IDE, it wouldn’t compile - and I noticed the PowerPod left the first code block for the PS2 and TX pins commented out - I uncommented and it worked after that.
So overall it went ok, but I’d suggest some clarification for the Bot Board II, and check the Basic Atoms you’re getting for fitment issues.
Now, onto the remaining issue… After troubleshooting all that, the wireless controller I got from you was acting sketchy, so I plugged in a wired PS2 controller and it works fine - yay! It’s alive!. But I went to the store and got a Logitech wireless, thinking that yours was defective, and that one doesn’t work either - both wireless receivers flash as if there’s an error . Is there something that has to be tweaked with the connections or code for wireless controllers and the Bot Board II?
I believe the Basic Atom and Atom pro modules are machined socketed which is why it is neccessary to bend the pins into the ABB’s socket. Thats the way they’re made by basic micro, i don’t think Jim can be responsible for that one.
And yes, I have noticed a lot of the totorials are a little out-dated, but Jim only has 2 arms…I think
You’re one of the first to build for the Bot Board II. Looks like we need to double check some things.
This is a known issue. How do you cram so many features into such a small package? You stretch the limits. The modules just barely fit. I bend the pins inward by holding it on its side on the table and gently bend all of the pins one on side at the same time.
Now you got me on this one. Looks like we need to get the tutorial updated. I will see ehre we are on it. It might be that it’s done and we just need to post it. Sorry for the troubles…
I will let Laurent know about this. It should be an easy fix.
The Logitec one has never worked for hobbyists so I’m not surprised to here this. It’s possible you just got a bad controller from us. Before we send a replacement, check to see if there are other 2.4ghz equipment running in the area. Wireless phones, weather equipment, wireless cameras, etc. Hang in there, we’ll get it sorted out.
Yup, I realize that Basic Atoms come from an outside vendor, just pointing it out so Lynxmotion could lay the smack down on Basic Micro if need be.
And on the wireless - I personally don’t run any 2.4ghz in my apartment other than possibly my cell phones, and on any devices I have that can scan wireless networks (like my PSP), the strongest signal I ever get is 25% or so. I guess anythings possible though. Maybe try it with my cell phones turned off?
But I do wonder about the controller from you guys itself - I tried two sets of fresh batteries, and both times the LEDs on the controller would light here and there, but very dimly, almost as if they’re not getting full voltage to them…
Well I just tried the wireless (the one I got from you) again, with all my cell phones turned off, and anything else I could think of, like my Wii… same thing - one light on the receiver steady, one blinking, and the left LED on the controller blinking dimly…
And I’ll add that I unfortunately don’t have a PS2 to test the controller with, but I’ve got a buddy at work that does - I’ll bring the wireless controller in to him tomorrow and have him test it, and let you know.
Receiver off and transmitter off…
Apply power to the receiver. The right LED on the receiver is on steady and the left is blinking till I turn the transmitter on, then both receiver LEDs are on full time.
Receiver on and transmitter off…
Apply power to the transmitter, the right LED on the transmitter is off and the left LED is blinking. Then they both turn on very briefly, then after a second they both go out.
I’ve seen the LEDs be bright and dim on different controllers and it never seamed to effect if the controllers work or not.
I’m incredibly sorry for the confusion… it’s my fault. I’ve completed the new version of the tutorial, and it’s online now. I know it doesn’t help you, but I thought you’d like to know regardless. Again, I apologize for the trouble!
First off, let me say that I’m a computer monkey myself, so I know how these things go, especially keeping caught up on documentation! And while it would’ve been nice to have a totally smooth experience, half the reason I gave my feedback was to offer suggestions for improvement, not to complain… I think you guys have a really cool product set that is right up the alley for tinkerers like myself. Besides, half the fun is trying to figure things out. And this is my first robot kit ever, so that probably gives me the perspective of a customer new to all this.
And on a side note, I was going to suggest that what may make all the difference with the Atom being too big would be if Basic Micro just cut the pins longer - half the problem is that the pins on one side were only about 3mm - if they were more generous with the pin length beding them to fit would be a lot easier.
Anyway, now back to the wireless issue - this is a headscratcher, but in the end all is well:
Had my buddy take your wireless home to try with his PS2, worked fine.
I was out and about, so I grabbed a used Pelican wireless on my way to his house, and tested that one there too on his PS2 - worked fine.
Came home, tried yours one last time - same thing…
Then tried the Pelican - bingo! Works like a charm.
So in the end both yours and the Pelican work with a PS2, but only the Pelican works on the CH3… wacky. Maybe yours is more sensitive to voltage levels or signal noise?
I can return yours if you guys are curious to check it out, but it’s not imperative - my buddy could use a wireless PS2 controller anyway - he doesn’t have any and his toddlers are always tripping over the wires and yanking them out of the PS2, so he’ll get good use out it…
So I’m good to go, thanks again for all the help - I’m sure I’ll be back to this forum again when I start messing around with a video camera equipped, laser-sighted airsoft turret
Let your buddy keep it. I still owe you a working controller though. PM me with your info so I can send you a new one. We have had pretty good luck with these controllers, but we do see a bum one from time to time. Sorry for the trouble.
Looks like we need to get the tutorial updated. I will see ehre we are on it. It might be that it’s done and we just need to post it. Sorry for the troubles…
